Launched in 2005 by Parfumerie Générale (now called Pierre Guillaume Paris), perfumer Pierre Guillaume’s French indie line, 08 Intrigant Patchouli, never fails to impress me. it opens with a nose-tingling note of spicy, bracing ginger and tart citrus notes of juicy, sweet mandarin, aromatic lemon and vibrant citron. As the citrus brightness fades, the top settles into a warm, fruity sweetness with powdery undertones that read elegant and chic. The piney aspect of the ginger connects to a note of earthy, sweet patchouli. Warm and leathery civet and castoreum show up. Perfectly balanced and in harmony, they give the patchouli an animalic depth that is just sublime. Before long, creamy, woody and sweet-tinged, Mysore sandalwood moves into the mix. It highlights the rich, balsamy, woody aspects of the patchouli. The dirty aspect of patchouli, which was never very pronounced, is even less noticeable now. Benzoin sends resinous curls up from the base notes, where musk benzoin adds a sensual undertone to 08 Intrigant Patchouli. Amber, vanilla and honey play their parts - amber adds warmth and depth, honey gives it a sticky sweetness, and vanilla makes it cozy and just a little boozy. To me, 08 Intrigant Patchouli is less a ‘counterculture’ patchouli and more of a complex patchouli fragrance that manages to be seductive, elegant and surprisingly soft without compromising patchouli’s personality. Notes: citrus, ginger, patchouli, Mysore sandalwood, civet, castoreum, benzoin, amber, musk, honey and vanilla.
