Launched in 2013 by Tauer Perfumes, PHI - une Rose de Kandahar is part of his Collectibles lines. It opens with a note of rich, fruity apricot gently warmed by spicy cinnamon. Almond appears and adds a soft, bittersweet note that tempers the richness of the apricot, while bergamot gives the opening a gentle brightness. The opening is warm, fruity, full, and fatty, setting the stage perfectly for the roses. Kandahar rose, with its spicy and plummy nuances, carry the cinnamon and apricot from the opening to the heart where it is joined by a deep, hypnotic Bulgarian rose – it smells of warm opulent, voluptuous roses. This is where I surrender. A note of geranium appears. Its strong rose-like odour threads through the roses and offers green glimmers of subtle mint. Then it starts to get animalic, leathery and woody from tobacco that leads to patchouli and vetiver at the base – strong notes for sure, but held in check by Tauer’s deft hand, they hum instead of sing. Vanilla and tonka bean add sweetness – a reminder to me that roses can be eaten and are used in desserts - without veering into dessert territory. Musk and ambergris round out the fragrance. The drydown is rich, sophisticated and refined. What do I smell when I sniff PHI - une Rose de Kandahar? I smell a rich, rare, rose fragrance that has seeped into my skin and gone straight to my soul. Notes: Apricot, cinnamon, almond, bergamot, rose from Kandahar, Bulgarian rose, Bourbon geranium, tobacco leaf, leather, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla, tonka bean, musk and ambergris.
