Kurume Kasuri is woven on retro belt-driven power looms from the Showa era, with twenty looms operating from a single motor. Founded in 1948, the mill continues to produce one of Japan's most representative yarn-dyed textiles. The fabric is known for its soft, handwoven-like texture. Because many of the processes are done manually, production involves over thirty steps and takes two to four months to complete. This textile is ideal for those who wish to create pieces rooted in traditional Japanese craftsmanship.This fabric features *tatekatsuri*, a kasuri pattern expressed solely through the warp yarns, also known as *itagatsuri*.While Kurume Kasuri is typically woven in plain weave with tied-resist patterns, Shimogawa Orimono has developed its own twill-woven Kasuri by installing a dobby mechanism onto their kasuri looms. Combining tatekatsuri with twill weaving allows for new, unique pattern expressions. Please note: twill fabrics have different colors on the front and back. Either side may be used as the face.By combining old machine parts and restoring dormant mechanisms, Shimogawa Orimono revived its Kurume Kasuri + Twill project. Focusing on solids and tatekatsuri, they incorporate twill weave to add subtle texture and dimensionality while maintaining the characteristic softness of kasuri-loom weaving. Twill woven under kasuri-loom tension is prone to weaving flaws, making it technically challenging, but continual experimentation is a defining part of the company's philosophy.Fabric thickness: standard + soft Warp yarn: 30/2, 40/2 Weft yarn: 16/1 Chemical dye 100% Finished with hot-water washing and sun drying, shrinking the fabric by about 10%. Ready to cut and sew immediately after purchase. Color: dark navy, purple 1393