Why This Watch Matters This Zenith has everything you could wish for – the first high-beat chronograph movement, the original ladder bracelet, and a killer dial. This reference A386 is truly something else. The Full Story In the late 1960s, the competition to create an automatic chronograph movement was fierce between Seiko, Zenith, and a conglomerate including Heuer, Breitling, and Hamilton, to name a few. Finally, in 1969 – seemingly all at once – a working solution was found, and the El Primero caliber from Zenith claimed to be the most technically advanced high-beat with a date. The manufacture matched this innovation with an equally impressive dial, offering a groundbreaking tri-color layout for the chronograph sub-registers. The ladder bracelet was manufactured by Gay Frères, also providing bracelets to Patek Philippe and Rolex. In short, this A386 has both an amazing (and historically significant) movement and exemplary looks. The Fine Print Maker: Zenith Model: El Primero Reference: A386 Year: Early 1972 Case No: 231E038 Material: Stainless steel Dimensions: 38 mm diameter; 13 mm thicknessSapphire Crystal: No, plexiglass Lume: Yes, tritium Caliber: Automatic movement chronograph El Primero caliber 3019 Bracelet/Strap: Original ladder bracelet manufactured by Gay Frères Lug Width: 19 mm Box/Papers: No What we Love and What You Should Know The serial number and the star emblem on the case back and crown of this example indicate that this watch was produced toward the end of the A386 run, in 1972. Its case displays unavoidable superficial scratches, and the dial is well-preserved except for a small mark near the center. The lume on the indexes and handset have taken on the same darker tint characteristic of the El Primero. This example has its original bracelet, signed by Zenith on the clasp. It was supplied by Gay Frères in early 1972 (matching the timeline of this piece). Overall, this is a stunning example of an iconic reference in watchmaking history.
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