Yarra Valley, Victoria Lambert’s Nebbiolo block sits halfway up Denton’s northwestern slope, catching all available sunshine. There are six acres planted to a patchwork of six clones; Mat 3 accounts for half the acreage, with the balance comprising K6, Mat 9, 10, 230 and 111. The soils here—granitic sand over granite bedrock—provide a unique terroir for the Yarra and Nebbiolo, which in Luke’s words “always contributes plenty of bright red fruit and floral perfume along with gun-flint, graphite characters typical of a granitic soil profile”. According to Luke, the “excellent growing season gave us a long and slow finish to the Nebbiolo harvest with very good hang time.” The wine itself is a touch riper, and the fruit flavours a darker shade of red compared to the most recent releases. Yet the song remains the same. Again, the Mat 3 clone brings the clout from its small berries and bunches, while the K6 layers in high-toned aromatics of anise, amaro bitter and dried red-flower prettiness. Despite the musculature, there is no lack of poise and structure, which builds in the glass as the wine takes on air. It is perfumed and brooding with energy, mineral steel and long, complex length. When it all comes together—the right site, the right vine stock, and the variety’s mercurial talent—this is what great Nebbiolo from Australian soils look like. Luke recommends decanting if approached in the short-term.
