Why This Watch Matters An unexpectedly excellent chronograph from Eterna, a slept on brand in the vintage world. The Full Story Eterna started its life as a movement manufacturer named "Dr. Girard & Schild," established by Josef Girard and Urs Schild in 1856. The Eterna name didn't appear on the dial of the company's watches until 1889. Eterna was the first company to bring to market a wristwatch with an alarm function in 1914 (patented in 1908). Eterna was also a proponent of the introduction of self-winding movements, with the Eterna-matic series, starting in 1948. The Eterna-matic was different from other automatic calibers of the time, as its construction featured a five ball-bearing mounted rotor system to reduce the level of friction, a design that eventually set a Swiss watch industry standard. Eterna's logo is even a depiction of the five ball-bearings. Many vintage Eternas found in the market today are time-only. The brand made a full line of excellently robust dress and sport three handers that was highlighted by the KonTiki and Super-KonTiki divers. The watch we have here is not a three-hander but rather a chronograph. As it is manually-wound, there is no need for the legendary Eterna five ball-bearing rotor either. In short, this is an oddball in the Eterna lineup and that makes it all the more special in our eyes. Exactly what you are not expecting sometimes works the best. This version of the Chrono is the second execution for the model. The earlier one would have had more pronounced pushers as one of the main differences. This example has the pushers set in the case a bit more, adding to the uniqueness of the watch. The use of muted tones in this example is really striking. Most obviously, the lightly faded burgundy bezel is the star of the show at a glance but, in looking closer, we come to appreciate the expertly paired grey tone of the dial plate and the deep blue accents within the sub-registers. Everything comes together to create a really special piece here. Add in a Valjoux 72 movement as well as a modern leaning, oversized cushion case in crisp condition and this Eterna becomes a real winner. One interesting deep detail of these Eterna Chronos are the reference numbering system inside the caseback. All are stamped deeply with 154 FTP followed by a lighter last digit, "-7" in our example. This final digit was added when the bezel insert was chosen and added to the watch. "-7" corresponds to the tachymeter bezel we see here, ensuring the bezel has not been swamped in our example. Other bezels in digits include "-3" for a minute graduated bezel similar to a diving watch. A neat detail to note is that this Chrono has retained its original Eterna crystal with the five tiny dots etched into the center. We paired this Eterna with our Sedona watch strap in Ash Grey to play off of the grey dial and bring a bit more dusty tone to the look. The Fine Print Maker: EternaModel: ChronoReference: 154 FTP-7Year: 1970sCase No: 5538955Material: Stainless steelDimensions: 41mm width x 45mm height; 14.5mm thicknessCrystal: PlexiglassLume: Yes, tritiumCaliber: Eterna, manually-wound, caliber 1492K (Valjoux 726)Bracelet/Strap: HODINKEE The Sedona Watch Strap In Ash GreyLug Width: 20mmBox/Papers: No What We Love And What You Should Know Things We Love: - Great use of color throughout- Crisp case- Funky sub-dial design Things To Know: - Light scratches on case- Color corrected hour and minute hands This Eterna Chrono is in overall excellent condition. The case is strong with scratches and nicks. The sunburst finish is still visible on the top part of the case. There's some marking from a previously installed bracelet between both and beneath sets of lugs. The case serial number on the caseback is clearly visible. The dial and hands are in great condition with light patina. The white sub-registers are clean with very light patina. The lume on the dial is in good condition and has developed some dark patina, mostly at 12. The hands and hour markers have developed patina. The hands also have light scratches. The lume on the hour and minute hands have been color corrected and is very close in color to the lume on the dial. The bezel is in good condition with some scratches and light wear around the edge. The burgundy bezel has faded. The crown is correctly unsigned for this model. The dial, case, crystal, and movement are all signed by Eterna. This watch was photographed on a 175mm/6.9inch wrist.
