Noir Tom Ford was launched in 2012 by Tom Ford and signed by Olivier Gillotin of Givaudan, who signed ten other fragrances for the brand. It opens with a note of tart bergamot that’s light and elegant. It blends into a note of lemony, herbal verbena. This citrusy start is irresistibly refined. Caraway appears and balances the citrus with its anisic sweetness, as pink pepper adds piquancy. The rosy overtones of the pink pepper hint at what’s to come – a note of violet, powdery and sweet. I know it seems as if the powderiness wouldn’t work, but it does beautifully. Soon, warm, spicy black pepper opens the heart, where nutmeg adds more spicy heat. This sets the stage for a note of iris that’s powdery, soft and elegant. It’s joined by rosy geranium, and together, they lead to an opulent, rich Bulgarian rose. The florals are buttressed with earthy, herbaceous clary sage, which keeps the femininity of the rose in check. The interplay between feminine and masculine makes Noir Tom Ford so irresistible and alluring. At the base, things are decidedly masculine with warm, sweet, balsamic opoponax, earthy, woody vetiver and patchouli and sweet, warm amber. Civet gives it an animalic edge, while vanilla adds creaminess and a little sweetness. I found a quote from Tom Ford where he says: “Noir captures how for many men there is a sophisticated outer persona and yet there is also that private side only a few know. This contrast is what makes him fascinating.” The dualities of feminine/masculine, refinement/eroticism, public/private are beautifully expressed in Noir, one of the best masculine fragrances out there. Notes: Bergamot, verbena, caraway, pink pepper, violet, black pepper, nutmeg, Tuscan iris, geranium, Bulgarian rose, clary sage, opoponax, amber, patchouli leaf, vetiver, civet and vanilla.
