Wine from this remote Sicilian satellite island is always something to get excited about, offering a distinct sense of place with little to compare to. Here we have some real nectar; 100% Zibibbo from 60 year-old bush vines fermented on the skins in amphora buried in the sandy volcanic soils of the vineyard to harness the heat of the earth to trigger fermentation. The grapes are de-stemmed and macerate for between 8 and 15 days in these vessels before being gently pressed and then fed back in with a portion of the skins to rest for 6 to 8 months before bottling. Nothing is added at any stage and the process is nothing short of alchemic. The concentration of the wine is impressive, glowing a sandy gold in the glass and generously textured. The aromatic potential of the grape is dialled right up with this ancient style of vinification; heady floral notes, elderflower, ripe tropical fruits and exotic spices leap from the glass. On the palate the wine mixes this brightness with earthy, honeyed tones, salinity and a tightly-wound acidity; the finish is impossibly long. An otherworldly delight.
