Few endorsements in Burgundy carry more weight than this one: when Jancis Robinson asked the legendary critic Allen Meadows (Burghound) who he considered a natural heir to Henri Jayer, Benjamin Leroux was one of only two names he offered. Leroux now controls two hectares across Vosne-Romanée, and this village bottling is assembled from no fewer than six distinct lieux-dits — Vosne proper, Genaivrières, Maizières Basses, Les Violettes, Les Jacquines, and Croix Blanche — planted predominantly to Pinot Fin, an increasingly rare, ancient Pinot Noir clone prized for exceptional concentration and terroir transparency. The fruit is hand-harvested, farmed organically, and vinified parcel by parcel, typically with around a third whole-cluster inclusion; a small portion undergoes "vinification intégrale," fermented as whole clusters in 450-litre barrels that are gently rolled rather than punched down, a technique that adds real lift and perfume. The result is routinely singled out as one of the finest village-level Pinot Noirs in all of Burgundy: poached strawberry, red cherry, and violet mingle with white flowers, sandalwood, and a distinctly stony earthiness, the whole-cluster fraction lending a subtle, spicy pepperiness. The palate is full of energy and flair, with fine, supple tannins, a bright bead of acidity, and a silky texture that carries through to a long, spice-laced finish — critics have scored recent vintages as high as 92 points, remarkable for a wine still carrying the "village" designation.
