Why This Watch Matters Heuer manufactured similar "panda" and "reverse panda" style chronographs for a few brands back in the 1960s, this example proving that Zodiac was among those. The Full Story Zodiac was founded in 1882 by Ariste Calame in Le Locle, Switzerland, and in 1908, the Zodiac brand was patented. In 1953, the company launched the Sea Wolf. Along with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner, Zodiac made some of the earliest commercially available dive watches. As a result, Zodiac divers were the choice of many soldiers who went to Vietnam in the '60s. Today, Zodiac draws a lot of inspiration from its vintage watches when designing new models. While the Sea Wolf was Zodiac's bread and butter, the brand aimed to offer its own option to other major portions of the mid-century wristwatch market. These Zodiac chronographs from the 1960s are often referred to as a "poor man's" Heuer Carrera, due to their shared resemblance to Heuer chronographs of that era. Heuer actually made watches for other companies including Clebar, Zodiac, Hamilton, and others. Zodiac was one of a few companies at the time that offered similar but more economical options compared to the highly recognizable Heuer classic. Sure, there are shared design cues and the look is close but this group of chronographs speaks more about the watch that this particular market demanded in this era rather than unoriginality by watch companies. The market was in need of a highly legible, simple, and reliable chronograph, demanding this watch so many companies followed suit in offering a version of their own. This Zodiac has all the elements of a great, function-forward 1960s chronograph, with a wearable 36mm diameter. The dial is executed in a reverse panda style, with engine-turned registers, legible matchstick hands, and an overall creamy patina to the luminous material. Important to note about the ref. 73623 are the three sub-registers. Most Zodiac, Clebar, and Hamilton by Heuer chronographs we find have only two but these Valjoux 7736-powered examples offer all the more utility. We paired this Zodiac with our Sedona Strap in a black tone to play off of the black and white colors of the dial and give the watch an overall casual, tool watch look. The Fine Print Maker: Zodiac by HeuerModel: ChronographReference: 73623 (852 883 inside)Year: 1960sCase No: 173527Material: Chrome plated with a stainless steel backDimensions: 36mm diameter; 11.5mm thicknessCrystal: PlexiglassLume: Yes, tritiumCaliber: Zodiac signed Valjoux, manually-wound, caliber 7736/85Bracelet/Strap: The Sedona Watch Strap In ScorpionLug Width: 19mmBox/Papers: No What We Love And What You Should Know Things We Love: - Reverse panda dial motif- Excellent overall condition- Manufactured by Heuer Things To Know: - Scratches on case- Spot of lume loss in minute hand- Light hand drag on 9 o'clock register This Zodiac is in overall excellent, honest condition. The case is strong with some light scratches and wear around the edges. The rear of the lugs show some scratches from strap removal and placement over the years. The caseback has some wear and a watchmaker's mark in the form of a hand engraved number. The dial is in great condition and clean with a light patina. The sub-dials have developed a light patina as well. The sub dials have some wear around the edges. The hour markers and hands have developed some patina. The lume in the hands and on the dial has developed patina and aged to a gorgeous creamy tone. The minute hand has a small spot of lume loss. The lume on the dial shows normal signs of minor degradation. The crystal has some light scratches. The dial, case, and movement are all signed by Zodiac. This watch was photographed on a 175mm/6.9inch wrist.
