In days past, birch tar (le bouleau pyrogéné) was used in its crude form. Modern safety requirements mean that it must now be rectified via distillation to be used in cosmetics and fragrances. This rectification process removes unwelcome molecules but it also destroys a large number of safe and decidedly beautiful ones. This results in a piercing "smoke essence" far stronger than the original and lacking much of its character. Classic birch tar was more than just smoke: it was sweet, it was woody and it was evocative. Using a sample of a well-preserved batch of crude birch tar from 1840 as a guide, we were able to reconstruct this treasured oil in the form of a base. Centred around a heart of IFRA compliant rectified birch tar, Bouleau Pyrogene 1840 includes many natural materials and highly specialised aroma chemicals that allow us to offer a product that not only smells just like the real thing, but is also balanced when used in bold doses; indeed you may use this up to 1.81% of your finished product though we suggest far less. The base opens with an appealing hint of herbal medicaments making it an ideal companion to intense florals such as Tuberose Absolute and Ylang-ylang, especially the Extra Superior quality. Bouleau Pyrogene 1840 is animalic, smokey and woody with accents of florals, fruit and wild honey. This is the true birch tar profile so beloved of perfumers like Ernest Beaux who used it liberally in Bouquet De Catherine (later Rallet Le No 1 — formula below), an early iteration of his great masterpiece Chanel No 5. Bouleau Pyrogene 1840 can be used as a one for one replacer of Birch Tar in classical formulas or in lesser amounts for modern fragrances. Combine it with Ambergris Intense, Thujopsene, Iraldeine Delta and marine synthetics to conjure images of wooden sailing ships and tar soaked ropes, or create a Guy Fawkesian delight by adding touches to flinty Karanal, Frankincense oil and Iso E Super for a gunpowder meets bonfire night accord.
