Forma Livre cocktail ring designed by Haroldo Burle Marx. This striking cocktail ring was created in Brazil by the artist-jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx during the 1960s–70s. An exceptional example of Brazilian modernist jewelry, the piece reflects the principles of Concretism through its refined balance of geometric form and abstraction. Masterfully handcrafted in solid 18-karat yellow gold, the ring features a delicate Florentine brushed finish that enhances its depth and visual texture. At its center, a vivid green Brazilian tourmaline is bezel-set, specially cut in the iconic “forma livre” (free-form) style-celebrated for its organic, sculptural character. Bold yet elegant, this rare piece embodies the innovative spirit of mid-20th-century Brazilian design, uniting artistic vision with exceptional craftsmanship. Country: Rio De Janeiro, Brazil. Period: Post-war, Modernism, 1960. Tourmalines: Mount in bezel settings, with 1 fancy Forma Livre cabochon cuts (21 x 17 x 7 mm) carved from natural Brazilian translucent green tourmalines, with a weight of about 14 carats. Birthstone: Tourmaline for the month of October. Weight: 12.70 Grams, (8.15 Dwt). Size: Actually is 5 and may be resized up or down on special request. Measurements: 22 mm by 19 mm, (1.02 x 0.79 x 0.51 Inches) and raise 10 mm over the finger. Hallmarks Stamped with the designer's mark, the goldsmith maker's mark, the mark for the assay and warranty of the 18Kt yellow gold and signed in full as follows, "BURLE MARX .750 IND BRAS GB 701". Haroldo Burle Marx He born in Rio de Janeiro in 1911 and was a designer, lapidary and gemologist than ran a successful workshop and gallery in Rio de Janeiro from the 1930 through the 1980. His exceptional work was a source of pride for Brazil. When dignitaries visited the country, the government often commissioned Haroldo to create pieces to present to them. Japan’s Empress Nagako, for one example, received an opal necklace when she visited the country. Queen Margrethe of Denmark wore a Burle Marx demi suite of an aquamarine ring and brooch on her wedding trip in 1966. Burle Marx did pioneer new looks and his influence can be seen in Brazilian jewelry designer’s work to this day. When his pieces were set with gems designed by his brother Roberto the combination was something truly special. The gems Roberto conceived were in a style called the Forma Livre Cut or free form cut. The unusual shapes transform Brazilian semi precious gems into architectural elements in the jewels. The jewelry works of Roberto Burle Marx and Haroldo Burle Marx, in different ways, are iconic representations of Brazil's innovative fine jewelry designing between the 1950 and 1980, indeed, of Brazilian modernism art movement. This rare piece have an obvious collaboration between three big names of the Brazilian arts; Haroldo Burle Marx (1911-1991) the designer and jeweler with galleries in brazil and Washington DC., Bruno Guidi the master chief goldsmith and lead designer of Burle Marx and finally Roberto Burle Marx (1909-1994), Haroldo's brother, designer and a landscape architect. The Concrete Art This term, was coined in 1930 by Theo Van Doesburg in his manifesto "Concrete Art", written in response to the formation of the association "Cercle et Carré". The document was signed by Hélion, Carlsund, Tutundjian and Wantz. When Van Doesburg died in 1931, his ideas were taken up at the end of the 1930s by two Swiss artists, Max Bill and Jean Arp, who published several works and held important exhibitions of painting, sculpture and applied arts. The denomination "concrete" or "concretism" is assumed in Switzerland in the post-war period by artists working in the current of geometric abstraction. The relationship between abstraction and concrete art is evident in the exhibition at the René Drouin Gallery in Paris in 1945, since it is the first important exhibition of abstract art, and its title was precisely “Art Concret”. In this art all kinds of illusionism are excluded; the work and the elements of which it consists are presented strictly for what they are, without virtual qualities. Materials do not simulate anything other than themselves. The slogan “real materials, real space” is often used in relation to this art form. Provenance: Purchased at H. Burle Marx jewelry store in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. A private collection in Palm Beach, Florida, USA. Collateral: These Burle Marx Forma-Livre ring is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box. Condition: The overall condition of these Burle Marx Forma-Livre ring is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. The tourmaline is secured in the settings. This ring was carefully inspected to guarantee the condition & authenticity. INVENTORY REF: R042326SNNM/.3052
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