The Challenger B26052 lifting cable is the direct replacement for the Challenger lift it came off of. Cross-referenced as ALS-7234-470, it is the genuine Challenger part — same part number, same fit, and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Challenger lifting cable from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same. Specifications Part number: ALS-7234-470 Brand: Challenger Type: Genuine OEM lifting cable Sheaves are the grooved pulleys the cable turns on — usually two per column on a two-post, more on a four-post with its runway and crossbeam pulleys. Each one rides a pin on a bushing and has to spin true so the cable tracks in the groove. When the groove wears wide or the bushing pushes out the side, the cable no longer sits where it should and starts sawing itself apart on every cycle. There is no cheaper insurance on a lift than fresh cable and sound sheaves. A cable set costs a fraction of a day's labor; a dropped vehicle costs the car, the downtime, and possibly somebody standing next to it. These parts hold real weight in the air. The moment a cable shows broken strands or a sheave won't turn true, the lift comes out of service until it's fixed — no exceptions worth making. Related parts for this lift The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit. Cable, Lifting RF for Q4P12 - Challenger - 10322133 103202133 Cable, Lifting LR for Q4P12 - Challenger - 10322138 103202138 Cable, Eq. CL12-0 - Challenger - 12703-0x Cable, Eq. CL12-0 (Set of 2) - Challenger - 12703-0 Cable, Eq. CL12-1 - Challenger - 12703-1x Cable, Eq. CL12-1 (Set of 2) - Challenger - 12703-1 Replacing your lifting cable Equalizer-cable work is as much adjustment as it is replacement — the cables only do their job when they're tensioned so both carriages rise and land together. Confirm the new cable length against the old, route it without twists, and dial in the adjusting nuts until the locks click in unison. Getting that equalization right is the whole point, and the complete walkthrough covers how to chase it down. Full step-by-step: how to replace 2-post lift cables. Find the right part for your lift If you are not sure this part matches your setup, the fastest check is the visual breakdown: open our Challenger parts lookup, pick your model, and match your part against the drawing where every item is numbered. Can't read the model plate? our guide to finding your model number shows exactly where it lives on each lift type, and we are a phone call away if you would rather have us confirm it. Signs a cable or sheave is worn out Compare side to side. On a two-post, both cables should look and feel alike; a marked difference — one furrier, one rustier, one with more broken wires — flags the one that's failing. Also check that each cable still sits fully in every sheave groove and hasn't jumped a pulley. A cable riding the edge of a groove instead of the bottom wears fast and can pop off. Parts commonly replaced at the same time Smart move while the columns are open: replace the matched cables and inspect every sheave, swapping any that are grooved or chipped. Cables and sheaves are a system, and doing them together keeps the lift equalized and running true. We will build the complete set for your model so you finish the job in one pass. Safety notes Do not gamble on a tension part. If a cable shows broken strands, cording, or heavy rust, or a sheave has an oversized or chipped groove, the lift comes out of service until it is fixed. Replace in pairs, tension evenly, and cycle the lift several times with no vehicle on it to confirm the set is riding true. Before you order Before you order, measure the old cable end to end and count how many you need — most lifts use a matched set, and replacing one without the others just leaves you doing the job again. Have your lift's model and serial handy so we can confirm length and end fittings for your exact production run. Not sure this fits? Here's how to check Pull the number off your lift's model plate first — model and serial both. Manufacturers run mid-cycle revisions that keep the model name but change hardware, so two lifts with the same name on the column can take different parts. The serial is what removes the guesswork. Second check: compare the old part against this listing before you order. Length, mounting pattern, and thread sizes tell most of the story. If anything doesn't line up, or if the old part is too worn or broken to measure, call us with photos — we work on these lifts every week and can usually confirm fit from a picture and the lift's serial faster than you can dig through a parts diagram. Why buy your Challenger lifting cable from Auto Lift Services We install, inspect, and repair Challenger lifts every week — the ALS-7234-470 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.
