The Forward 107202B lifting cable is the direct replacement for the Forward lift it came off of. Cross-referenced as ALS-7239-54, it is the genuine Forward part — same part number, same fit, and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Forward lifting cable from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same. Specifications Part number: ALS-7239-54 Brand: Forward Type: Genuine OEM lifting cable Sheaves are the grooved pulleys the cable turns on — usually two per column on a two-post, more on a four-post with its runway and crossbeam pulleys. Each one rides a pin on a bushing and has to spin true so the cable tracks in the groove. When the groove wears wide or the bushing pushes out the side, the cable no longer sits where it should and starts sawing itself apart on every cycle. There is no cheaper insurance on a lift than fresh cable and sound sheaves. A cable set costs a fraction of a day's labor; a dropped vehicle costs the car, the downtime, and possibly somebody standing next to it. These parts hold real weight in the air. The moment a cable shows broken strands or a sheave won't turn true, the lift comes out of service until it's fixed — no exceptions worth making. Related parts for this lift The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit. Shim for Top Rail Sheave Kit - Forward Slack Cable Latch Roller CR14, RFP14 - Forward - H4P-1014 Crossmember Sheave Shaft CR14 - Forward - H4P-1009 Slack Cable Safety Latch CR14, RFP14 - Forward - H4P-1003G Sheave I-DP9 - Forward - 0970901KIT 0970901 970901RR51004 Runway Cable Sheave Shaft CR14 - Forward - H4P-3005 Replacing your lifting cable Swapping a sheave means getting the cable off it, driving out the pin without mushrooming it, and putting every spacer and clip back in the exact order it came apart. Anti-seize the pin on reassembly and install the new sheave with the bushing facing out. It's a short job that goes wrong fast if the retention hardware goes back in the wrong sequence, so the step-by-step is worth reading before you start. Full step-by-step: how to replace 2-post lift cables. Find the right part for your lift If you are not sure this part matches your setup, the fastest check is the visual breakdown: open our Forward parts lookup, pick your model, and match your part against the drawing where every item is numbered. Can't read the model plate? our guide to finding your model number shows exactly where it lives on each lift type, and we are a phone call away if you would rather have us confirm it. Signs a cable or sheave is worn out Compare side to side. On a two-post, both cables should look and feel alike; a marked difference — one furrier, one rustier, one with more broken wires — flags the one that's failing. Also check that each cable still sits fully in every sheave groove and hasn't jumped a pulley. A cable riding the edge of a groove instead of the bottom wears fast and can pop off. Parts commonly replaced at the same time Think in sets when you order tension parts: cables in pairs, sheaves with their pins, and the lock-release cable if it is due. It is far cheaper to do the whole wear group while the lift is open than to reopen it for the piece you skipped. Tell us your model and we will assemble the kit. Safety notes Safety here is simple and non-negotiable: a frayed cable or cracked sheave is an out-of-service condition, not a watch-and-see. Replace at the manufacturer's interval or at the first sign of broken wires, corrosion, or groove wear, and always equalize and cycle the lift empty before it carries a vehicle again. Before you order A quick prep before ordering saves a wrong box: confirm your model and serial, and measure the old cable if you can. The same lift can take different cable lengths across its run, so matching the actual part beats matching the brochure. We will verify fit for your serial before anything leaves. Not sure this fits? Here's how to check Pull the number off your lift's model plate first — model and serial both. Manufacturers run mid-cycle revisions that keep the model name but change hardware, so two lifts with the same name on the column can take different parts. The serial is what removes the guesswork. Second check: compare the old part against this listing before you order. Length, mounting pattern, and thread sizes tell most of the story. If anything doesn't line up, or if the old part is too worn or broken to measure, call us with photos — we work on these lifts every week and can usually confirm fit from a picture and the lift's serial faster than you can dig through a parts diagram. Why buy your Forward lifting cable from Auto Lift Services We install, inspect, and repair Forward lifts every week — the ALS-7239-54 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.
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