Why This Watch Matters A final examination at a watchmaker's school in Grenchen, Switzerland, this Heuer Carrera features a Cotes de Genève finished dial and quite the story. The Full Story Heuer introduced the Carrera in 1964, and today, it's one of the most iconic vintage Heuer chronograph models out there. The example we have here is the ref. 1110.253B cased in stainless steel with the caliber 12 automatic movement featuring a hidden micro-rotor inside. The letter "B" in the reference indicates the "blue" metallic dial with this reference being finished in a spectacular Cotes de Genève pattern, which splits the dial plate into thirds and plays with the light when viewing from different angles. The caliber 12 is the second generation of the caliber 11, which was (arguably) the first automatic chronograph movement of all time. The Carrera configuration we have here is the from the second generation with the tonneau-shaped case, which debuted in 1969 and was in production until the late 1970s. Our ref.110.253B hit the Heuer catalog in 1978 and was produced for just a few years. The reference is uncommon in and of itself, but making our example all the more special are two lines of additional dial text at six o'clock – "Uhrmacherschule Solothurn." Scouring vintage watches on Instagram or within auction catalogs of present and old, every once in a while you'll come across a watchmaking school signed dial. The story is often told that for a final examination in Switzerland, students were required to assemble a wristwatch from scratch using unbranded, off-the-shelf parts. Obviously, this Heuer is not unbranded, it's a Heuer Carrera, one of the more iconic and, well, branded chronographs of all time. The watch is quadruple signed by Heuer, so, it's possible that Heuer donated or the school bought enough Heuer made parts for a class to assemble actual Heuer Carreras as opposed to generic chronographs. This Carrera is really stunning in the metal. This generation of the Heuer chronograph was overlooked for a long time while collectors focused on the earlier manually wound references, but there's arguably more to love here. Beyond the aforementioned caliber 12 automatic chronograph movement and its history, the larger case shape is very representative of the era while remaining extremely wearable and contemporary in 2021. Of course, the real star of the watch is the deep blue dial. The Cotes de Genève finish when paired with the crisp white dial printing and the slight orange accents really makes the watch pop. We paired this Heuer Carrera with our Sedona Strap in Sandstone to offer a muted tone next to the bold watch; the resulting look is great for everyday wear. The Fine Print Maker: HeuerModel: CarreraReference: 110.253BYear: Circa late 1970sCase No: 371784Material: Stainless steelDimensions: 39mm diameter; 14mm thicknessCrystal: PlexiglassLume: Yes, tritiumCaliber: Heuer, self-winding, caliber 12Bracelet/Strap: HODINKEE The Sedona Watch Strap in SandstoneLug Width: 20mm Box/Papers: No What we Love and What You Should Know The case is in overall great, honest condition. The case is sharp with correct brushing on the tops of the lugs and case sides. The lugs have some small, faint nicks, and there is an indentation on the edge of the case near ten o'clock. The rear of the lugs have scratching from strap removal and placement. The caseback has some scratches from removal and has a faint circular mark in the center. The reference and case numbers on the caseback are still clearly visible. The dial is overall in good condition with the metallic finish well preserved. There is one small mark on the dial near the ten o'clock marker. The lume plots at each hour marker show some patina and minimal lume loss. The painted hands show some patina, are generally bright white, and have one spot of paint loss on the minute hand near the tip. The lume on the hands has developed patina and turned to a darker color than the lume on the dial. The dial, crown, case, and movement are signed by Heuer. This watch was photographed on a 175mm/6.9inch wrist.
