Casement–Inspired by summer's warm breeze through open windows.Fresh and forward. Base : waterbased Coverage : approx 75 sqft per 500 mLFinish/sheen : matteClean up : waterDry time : 30 min approxRecoat time : 1-2 hours approxCure time : 21 days approx Prep:Clean your piece with Fusion’s TSP Alternative to remove grease and dust.Remove Wax (if needed):Use Odourless Solvent to remove any wax coating.Light Scuff Sanding (if needed):Sand high gloss finishes to dull the sheen.Paint:Choose any Fusion colour and paint beautiful.Note: Priming is usually not necessary with Fusion Mineral Paint. For bleed-through or knots, use Zinsser BIN Shellac-based primer. For dark-to-white transitions, use a mid-tone colour like Sterling as a primer.For detailed steps and additional tips, check out the full guide and video:Ultimate Guide to Prep FurniturePrep Video Non-toxic * Minimal prep work * Easy application * Exceptional coverage * Gorgeous matte finish * No sealer required * Built-in topcoat for amazing durability * UV, water, and stain resistant * Lead-, ammonia-, formaldehyde-, and phthalate-free * 7 year shelf life What makes Fusion Mineral Paint so different?Fusion is a 100% acrylic paint with no fillers! Our pigments are all derived from natural minerals, and our paint is 100% non-toxic with no lead, and no phthalates. Plus - it’s got a built-in top coat that is UV, water, and stain resistant - meaning you don’t have to wax or seal it!To learn more about the Fusion Mineral Paint Difference, check out this page: THE FUSION DIFFERENCE Do I need to sand my furniture?It’s never a bad idea after cleaning with TSP Alternative to give a light scuff sanding. It is necessary on high gloss finishes or when you are trying to paint stubborn coatings such as Teflon or fire retardants. For a glossy piece of furniture, lightly scuff sand with medium / fine grit to de-gloss surfaces would be wise. Your aim is to dull the sheen, not remove the finish.It is important you only sand a clean surface. If you think this could be an old lead paint, do not sand, as lead particles are toxic. ____________________________________Prep order:Clean with TSP AlternativeRemove wax if present on the surface with our Odourless solventScuff sand to dull the sheenPaint it Beautiful When do I need a Primer?Times when primer is recommended:There are only 2 reasons you would need to prime:For adhesion, or to block stains and wood tannins from coming through the paint film.1. To block stains and wood tannins/bleed through, apply Zinnser Shellac BIN primer. This is also recommended for knotty pine. Here’s a video on this https://youtu.be/aAvRz6gl6XE 2. For extra adhesion on shiny, slick surfaces like Thermofoil, Melamine, some laminates and very high gloss detailed carvings that can’t be scuff sanded to de-gloss : Ultra Grip allows you to paint the impossible, it acts like an ultra adhesive primer for those exceptional very difficult surfaces. Here’s a video on this https://youtu.be/6LBw9IWjCYE People often use a 'primer' undercoat to go from a dark colour to a light colour. This is not required, instead, try using a transition colour like Sterling grey or our Transition product to help cut down the number of required coats overall.Here is some more information on Transition https://youtu.be/nPVFc7TpETs Our mid-tone colour transition product will help make the switch to pure whites easier.Watch this https://youtu.be/G30eIVq3yfc How to choose the right brush?Natural bristle brushes such as the Staalmeester natural series and the Staalmeester original series provide a more textured finishes. Fine quality synthetic bristles provide a smoother finish such as the pro-hybrid series and the One Series Staalmeester. You should pick a brush based on your project.Large Projects. Walls, ceilings, floors, large tables, or doors, the Staalmeester® wall brush, large flat brush, One series ‘spalter’ or microfiber paint rollers are the perfect choices. Small/Medium projects Window frames, dressers, cabinets or railings, the Staalmeester oval brush, round brush and One series decoration ‘spalter’ brush are the perfect choice. Detailed projects: Detailed furniture edges and shaped profiles such as railings, window frames, spindles, and ledges, the Staalmeester® pointed sash brush and bended brush are a must-have. How to avoid brushstrokes?If you’re struggling with brush strokes, the biggest culprit is too much paint on your brush, using the wrong type of brush, or the temperature/humidity isn’t working in your favour. If your brush has too much paint on it, it will leave brush strokes. Remove excess paint.Less is more. Even a small amount of paint will offer excellent coverage. Apply 2 thin coats for best results. If you’re still struggling with brush strokes add our Extender to increase your working time. You can also try rolling the paint instead.If the climate is dry, your paint will start to create texture almost immediately upon application. Be sure to add the Extender to avoid this.The ultimate key is less is more, and using a high-quality synthetic brush. Learning how to avoid brush strokes while painting is a slight learning curve, these tips and this video should be quite helpful!
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