The bitter green that Italian cooks have relied on for generations and one of the most flavourful leaves in the produce section. Loose, dark and robustly flavoured with a clean honest bitterness that stands up to heat and bold ingredients without flinching. At its best in the cooler months from April through August when cool growing conditions produce leaves with a balanced bitterness and good structure. Available year-round but autumn and winter chicory is noticeably the better product. Wilt in olive oil with garlic and a pinch of chilli flakes for the classic Italian preparation that needs nothing else alongside grilled meat or fish, toss through a pasta with anchovies, capers and breadcrumbs where the bitterness is the point, fold into a white bean soup where it adds depth and colour, or use raw in a salad with a sharp mustardy dressing and something sweet like roasted beetroot or fresh orange to balance the bite. Look for leaves that are firm and upright with deep green colour and no yellowing or wilting. A fresh bunch smells clean and earthy.
