Clear Poly Satin Quart

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A favorite of professional/industrial finishers and OEM manufacturing facilities, Enduro Clear 1K Poly is a premium non-yellowing water-based self-crosslinking polyurethane-fortifi ed topcoat that delivers a clear, tough, durable, and abrasion-resistant finish. Now available in a Dead Flat sheen, it is clear drying, low odor, and easy to use. Clear 1K Poly can be used on any project where more solids (28%) and durability are desired. Learn more about General Finishes' entire finishing system of clear and pigmented primers, acrylic and polyurethane clears, pigmented topcoats and water-based stains Step 1: Preparation for Raw Wood & Existing Sealed Surfaces All wood projects require preparation sanding. If you skip this critical step, your finish may fail. Raw wood See our video: How To Prep Sand New Wood 1. Sand no finer than 220 grit. 2. Remove dust. New Stained Surface: Do not sand. Apply directly to the stained surface. Pre-Finished Wood & Sealed Surfaces See our video: How to Prepare Existing Finishes Scuff clean with a non-woven abrasive pad & 50:50 mix of denatured alcohol & water. Dry 1-2 hours. Sand lightly with 220-320-grit sanding sponge. Remove Dust Other Substrates: Interior MDF, HDF, & Masonite Can be used with proper preparation & priming. Always test first. Step 2. How to Apply General Finishes Enduro Clear Poly CAUTION: Do NOT use GF Enduro Clear Poly or any other clear coat, over white or light paints such as GF Milk Paint, or GF White Poly as it may cause yellowing. Any clear coat can become reactive over wood substrates or existing finishes causing tannin, stain or dye bleed-through. All of GF's White Paints, brushable or spray versions, do NOT require a topcoat. General Finishes Enduro Clear Poly Spray Application: Raw Wood & Sealed Surface Watch product overview video here or comparison of GF water based topcoats here. Work in a well-ventilated area. Stir thoroughly to reincorporate solids that have settled to the bottom of the can before and throughout the application process. Test for color & adhesion over existing sealed surfaces. Thin as desired with distilled water; start with 5%, adding up to 10% by volume. Increase open time, if needed, with 10-15% by volume of General Finishes Extender if allowed by local regulations. GF Extender will improve flow and leveling and increase open time, which is helpful in dry climates. California Residents: Adding more than 2% of GF Extender will make the products non-compliant per SCAQMD Regulations. GF assumes no liability for the improper use of these products. Ready to spray from container. Wear NIOSH-approved respiratory and eye protection. Spray application: Before spraying, strain through a fine-mesh filter. Spray wet films at 3-5-mil thickness. Medium air cap. Compressed air: .040, HVLP: 1.1mm-1.3mm, Air-Assist Airless: 600 PSI pump, 20 PSI assist air, .011" tip or Airless: fine finish .007"-.011. Verify tip sizes with your equipment supplier. See our spray tip size recommendations here. Keep your gun at a 90° angle, 6-8" from the surface. On large, flat areas, use wet, even patterns 6-8" wide. For narrow surfaces, reduce the fan pattern to 2-3" wide to reduce overspray. Overlap each pass 25% to conceal lines. Wear a mask and work in a ventilated space. Face frames: Enduro professional products are engineered to be spray-only but can be successfully applied successfully to cabinet face frames, edges or drawer fronts with a small cabinet-specific 3/8" nap microfiber roller such as Whizz or AllPro brand. Larger areas may not level with a roller application. Add 10-20% Extender for improved results. If a faster build is desired over raw wood, use General Finishes Sanding Sealer for the first coat, followed by 2 coats of Clear Poly. Dry time based on ideal conditions: 70°F/21°C; 50% humidity. Tack free 5-10 minutes. Ready to sand 30-45 minutes. Recoat in 1-2 hours. Be sure to allow adequate dry time. You can tell if a water-based finish is dry if it forms a powder when lightly sanded with a 220-320 sanding sponge. If in doubt, wait longer. Rushing the dry time can cause "blush," which is clouding in the finish due to moisture trapped between the layers. Increase dry time if: Higher humidity Cooler temperatures 3+ coats are applied Thick coats are applied Applying over a sealed surface Applying over products from other brands Layering General Finishes water- and oil-based products: Water over oil: Let oil-based products dry 72+hr before applying water-based products Oil over water: Let water-based products dry 24+hr before applying oil-based products To accelerate dry time in humid conditions, add General Finishes Accelerator and work in a space with good ventilation and air movement. If you decide to re-coat before the recommended time, test dryness. Finish sand between coats with a 220-320 sanding sponge to improve smoothness and adhesion. Remove dust with a vacuum, compressed air, an oil-free tack cloth or a water-dampened rag. A topcoat is not required. Cure Time Water-based finishes cure and harden for full use after 21 days in ideal conditions. Avoid placing heavy objects on surfaces that have not completely cured. Treat gently, and do not clean with commercial products during the curing period.Warning Do not use water-based products with Linseed Oils or Danish Oils. Dry Time Based on ideal conditions of 70°F 21°C; 50% humidity. Tack-Free: 5-10 minutes Ready to Sand: 30-40 minutes Recoat: 1-2 hours Be sure to allow adequate dry time. You can tell if a water-based finish is dry if it forms a powder when lightly sanded with a fine-grade (220-320) foam sanding pad or 400-grit sandpaper. If in doubt, wait longer. Rushing the dry time can cause "blush," which is clouding in the finish due to moisture trapped between the layers.Increase dry time if: Humidity is over 80% Temperatures are cooler. 3+ coats are applied Thick coats are applied Applying over an existing sealed finish Applying over products from other brands Layering General Finishes water- and oil-based products: Water over oil: Let oil-based products dry 72+hr before applying water-based products Oil over water: Let water-based products dry 24+hr before applying oil-based products To accelerate dry time in humid conditions, add General Finishes Accelerator and work in a space with good ventilation and air movement. If you decide to re-coat before the recommended time, test dryness. Yellowing & Clear Topcoat As is true of most "water-white" topcoats, General Finishes water-based topcoats dry clear over non-reactive substrates, such as plastic or metal, except General Finishes Enduro-Var, which ambers. When white paint sealed with a water-white topcoat is applied to something as unpredictable as wood, all bets are off and the reason for yellowing is often unknown. It can be caused by topcoat activating tannins in raw wood or aniline dyes, stains, or contaminants in a pre-existing finish. This is most evident when using BRIGHT WHITE paint and most prevalent in sculpted details of furniture where the topcoat can collect, intensifying color change to an unacceptable level. There is no reliable way to predict whether yellowing will occur and to what degree. Every existing finish is different and we rarely know the finishing provenance on an existing piece. Every tree is different and every piece of wood is unique. Raw wood can bleed tannins immediately after the topcoat dries or months later with seasonal temperature changes. Oak, pine, mahogany, and Douglas fir are particularly prone to bleed-through. Summary Whites have a lower “hide” quality and are more transparent than most other colors. Nearly all bright whites require additional coats to achieve the desired color and minimize color variation. This can increase the cost of paint finishing. Always include a clause in your contracts addressing the need for additional coats to achieve coverage. All bright white paint will yellow slightly with time, with or without topcoat. You have probably tried to touch up white woodwork in your home after several years and noticed the new paint is brighter. The underlying finish or wood species can affect the final color of light paint. Details and inside corners are difficult to cover with any paint color, but it tends to be more noticeable with whites. This is a naturally occurring phenomenon in paint application and does not necessarily constitute a defect in the paint finish or your technique. The more porous the paint, such as a chalk paint, the more likely that yellowing will occur. The topcoat is seeping through the spaces caused by the larger particles of filler that give Chalk Paints their texture. Tips to Prevent Yellowing If it is a low-use project, use a premium white paint that is self-sealing and does not require a topcoat. A clear topcoat is not required on General Finishes Milk Paint for increased durability, as it is a self-sealing, exterior-rated coating with high durability and chemical and water resistance. However, topcoats do provide a smooth surface that is easier to clean and boosts durability for high-use projects, such as tabletops and kitchen cabinets. Use a professional product such as General Finishes Enduro White Poly. It has "increased topcoat properties," is a standalone finish when 3 coats are applied, and does not require sealing with a topcoat. We recommend using General Finishes Stain Blocker, an engineered chemical barrier, to prevent persistent bleed-through for interior-use projects. Stain Blocker does not adhere to melamine cabinet veneers. Stain Blocker cannot be tinted. Always test your project's ENTIRE finishing schedule (from cleaning to topcoat) on an inside door or a more hidden area of the piece. This will not help if the yellowing occurs later, but at least you will know if there is an immediate problem. Avoid painting period furniture, such as a 1940s serpentine mahogany desk, with light colors. The pieces were often finished in stain that contained aniline dyes, which cast a pinkish bleed-through under light paint. Not every piece of furniture is suitable for upcycling with a light paint color. Pine, mahogany, and furniture of the 1940s and 50s are a red flag. Last, not all manufacturers' topcoats are compatible with other finishes and may react with a color change. Always follow best practices by not rushing, and testing to your satisfaction first. KnotsKnots in wood tend to bleed and are dense, making paint and stain adhesion a challenge. Stain Blocker may improve adhesion and prevent bleed-through for painting projects. Pine knots are especially difficult to cover with white or light paints. If you decide to paint over them, apply 3 coats of Stain Blocker first; however, we cannot guarantee adhesion or bleed-through blockage. You are better off using a dark paint on pine. Cleanup of Water Based Products Application tools and materials containing water-based products can be cleaned with soap and water or General Finishes Brush & Gun Cleaner immediately after use. Product Spills Spills may be able to be removed from fabric and carpet if cleaned immediately with soap and water. Disposal Discard unused product and waste in an environmentally safe manner; check with local fire and health regulation. TDS SDS Show more