Level: advanced The Villers pattern is for the experienced sewist who have already made jackets and can work with heavy weight fabrics. The pattern will teach you how to make production flat felled seams, which require dexterity and confidence. Construction techniques: flat felled seams, top stitching, collar, cuff facings with slit opening, buttons and buttonholes. A glossary is available: www.camimade.com/glossary. Measurements table (cm inches) Height: 1.65m / 5'5'' B-cup Finished garment measurements (cm inches) *Length between the shoulder and the bottom of the jacket **The sleeve is 4 cm / 1 5/8’’ shorter than the arm because the shoulder seam is dropped by 4 cm / 1 5/8’’. My measurements Bust 84cm (33") - Waist 69cm (26 ¾") - hips 92cm (35 ⅞") - 1.58m tall (5'2"). I made all the samples in size B. Suggested fabrics (m yards) This pattern is ideal for medium to heavy weight cotton fabrics like denim, twill, duck or canvas. The jacket can also be made in a corduroy. Choose a fabric that doesn't stretch. You can choose to make the collar in a contrast fabric like I did for view B using a needlecord fabric (requiring less than 0.5 m / 1/2 yard). All fabric yardages were calculated for a directional fabric. If you need to pattern match your fabric you need to buy more than indicated below. Samples shown in the pictures I made view A (short with a wide Peter Pan collar) in a heavy weight dark blue cotton denim. I made a long view B (long with a classic collar) with a heavy weight dark blue cotton canvas. I made view C (with the mandarin collar) in a medium weight damask ochre cotton. Notions • 3.5 cm / 1 1/2’’ wide bias binding: 50-60 / 16-20’’ cm long. Make your own or buy ready made binding. • 9 buttons for the short length, 10 buttons for the long one: go for metal buttons for a denim look (you might need a hammer to put them in place) • Thread: for heavy weight denim top stitching I recommend Gütermann Mara 80. Otherwise, a classic Gütermann sew-all is perfect for lighter fabrics. I find the Gütermann top stitch thread too thick to work with so I personally don’t use it but this is a personal preference. • Fusible interfacing for the collar, button placket, and cuff facing: you will need approximately 0.75 m / 7/8 yard. Make a small square test to see if fusible interfacing is necessary on your fabric (some heavy weight denim fabrics don’t require fusing).
