Exclude MAPerformance intake Full-Etune is ONLY available directly via Dmann's official site due to volume. Additions/Add-ons: $50 Burble/Pop Tune Add-on Feature Your AP serial number can be found in a few different places: There is a sticker on the side of your box (your accessport was shipped in) You can find the serial number when hooked up to a power source (either your car or computer) through the AccessPort itself. Here is a screenshot run-through of how to find the serial number on your AP. A) Starting in the main menu, scroll all the way up to "Help".B) In the "Help" menu, click the "About AccessPort" option.C) In the "About AccessPort" menu, scroll down to "Serial Number Sticker". You should find a 10 digit serial number there. If you have a V3, it will begin with FOR, SUB, MIT, MAZ, NIS, etc (depending on your car). You can also find the serial number when the AP is connected to AP Manager. Simply connect your AP to AP Manager and click the "AP Info" button. The serial number will be in the middle of the pop-up window. Under the faceplate of your V3 AccessPort. We only recommend this as last option as you may accidentally break your faceplate. You can pull the faceplate off from the top gently. The serial number is located in the white rectangle. It's best to re-install the faceplate from the bottom end first. If you have a V2, it will start with 111, 121, 131, 221, 421 and so on (depending on your car) and will also be a 10 digit number. If you're going through the AccessPort to find your V2 serial number, it will only give you the last 3-5 digits. The first 3 digits will be the year/model of your car. For example, if you have a 2002 WRX, that is a SUB-001 part number. A V3 part number would start with "SUB01", whereas a V2 serial number would start with 111. If it gives you the last 4 digits of, for example, 1234 and your first 3 digits are 111, then your serial number would be 1110001234. All AP serial numbers are 10 digits, so you take your first 3 digits, your last 3-5 digits and fill the middle with zeros until the serial number is exactly 10 digits. These serial numbers should also be on the back of the V2 AP. Drunkmann Tuning E-tune Provides Great Performance Without Compromise Tuning your car is always recommended to get the most out of your performance upgrades. But there are many different types of tunes, so it can be difficult to know where to start. Especially if you’re a novice when it comes to the Subaru WRX/STI platform. Fortunately, the Drunkmann Tuning E-Tune is here to help you out with your WRX/STI. Drunkmann Tuning E-Tune is one of the most cost-efficient parts of its kind and at the same time giving you the convenience to complete the process without having to travel to the shop. Drunkmann Tuning E-Tune You can use either Cobb or open-source software to complete your tuning. Open source is software using a free license, making it accessible to anyone online. Cobb tuning uses ECU flashing devices so you can change ECU maps for higher power. Cobb can also change maps for protecting the car when someone other than you has access to the keys. Open source uses RomRaider and supporting programs while Cobb uses ATR. The tune is determined by the performance parts you installed on your vehicle as well as your goals, whether it’s to maximize horsepower or gain more torque. The best part is you get to be a part of the tuning process where you go on to the open roads, take your vehicle for a couple of pulls for data logs, send it to the tuner for revision, and repeat until you and we are happy about the outcome. The Drunkmann Tuning E-Tune includes a Burble/Pop Tune add-on which gives you the exciting race-car sound!! Tuning mods come in three classifications of Stage 1, Stage 2, and Stage 3. There is no consistent, universally accepted definition for each of them and what makes them different. Generally speaking, Stage 1 is 20bhp more, has cheaper options, and single bolt on parts or one time upgrade. Stage 2 is usually 40 bhp more, more money for more power, and uses two or more parts. Stage 3 is typically 100 bhp more, the most expensive option, and requires internal work as well. Stage 1 doesn’t require other engine modifications to work, Stage 2 is usually DIY but requires specialist tools, and Stage 3 will typically be a track day or motorsport mod. Stage 1 mods include induction kits or a simple engine remap and examples of Stage 2 are downpipes or paired with an aftermarket intake system. Not sure if which e-tune option is best for your car? We can help you pick, and help with any other questions you have about your WRX/STI and the Drunkmann Tuning E-Tune. Contact us today about your Drunkmann Tuning E-Tune.
