The 1970s are full of fun and funky watches like this one, which marry features of dive watches—a chunky waterproof case crowned by a rotating bezel—with a chronograph. Called chronodivers, they proliferated in the decade, when sporty-chic fashions were all the rage. But their distinctive looks and often sprightly color ways have brought them renewed popularity among today’s collectors. This one bears the name Dugena on the dial and is known as the Deepstar Diver. Established in 1917, Dugena was less of a brand and more of an association that had many manufactures under its umbrella. BWC, Fortis, and Alpina all took part. In fact, it’s this last brand—Alpina—that forms part of the association’s name: Deutsche Uhrmacher Genossenschaft Alpina, or DUGENA. Gesundheit. The Deepstar features many components that were commonly used throughout the period. Take for example the 38mm skin diver contract case. It was used by almost every watch company that wanted to release an inexpensive, but still handsome, dive watch. And by everyone, we mean everyone, from Dubey & Schaldenbrand to LeGran. But it’s the dial that really distinguishes the Deepstar Diver from all the other chronodivers out there. Glossy black with a white chapter ring, it’s enlivened by a white sub-dial at 3 o’clock that boasts a splash of red within. But the most exciting feature is the running seconds hand in the sub-dial at 9 o’clock, which is shaped like a propeller, a nod to the watch’s aquatic heritage.
