The Eastern Redbud Tree is a breathtaking native ornamental celebrated for its early-season magic and romantic, heart-shaped foliage. Long before other trees wake, the Redbud erupts in a stunning display of vibrant pink to lavender blossoms that coat the bare branches and even the trunk in a phenomenon known as cauliflory. Growing to a perfectly sized 20 to 30 feet, it is the premier choice for homeowners because its compact, multi-stemmed habit fits beautifully under power lines or in smaller garden nooks. Its unique heart-shaped leaves transition from a soft bronze to a lush green, then a buttery gold in the fall. Eastern Redbuds also serve as a critical early-spring nectar source for honeybees and emerging butterflies. It is extraordinarily adaptable, thriving in both full sun and the dappled shade of larger canopy trees. These Redbud Tree Seeds were collected in the North for superior cold-hardiness and can be planted in the South to have this trait. Also Known As: Eastern Redbud, Northern Redbud, Judas Tree, Cercis canadensis, Redbud Sapling, American Redbud, Forest Pansy, Lavender Tree, Canadian Redbud, Gainier du Canada, Árbol del amor, Ciclamino, Early Spring Bloomer, Pink Flowering Tree, Heart-leaf Tree, Native Flowering Tree. Plant Name: Tree, Northern Redbud Latin Name: Cercis canadensis Northern Days to Germinate: 14-28 Days to Bloom: 3 - 5 Years Plant Height: 20 - 30 Feet Spread: 25 - 35 Feet Bloom Diameter: 1/2 - 1 Inch Growth Habit: Upright USDA Zones: 4-9 Lifespan: Perennial Brand: TomorrowSeeds Sunlight: Full Sun, Partial Shade Pollination: Heirloom, Open-Pollinated GMO: No Fungicide-Treated Seeds*: No Seeds Packed For**: 2026 *Fungicide-treated seeds protect the seedlings from diseases until they are up and growing. Do not eat treated seeds. **Seeds are freshly packed for the growing season of the year listed. Seeds are still viable beyond pack date. Store in a cool and dry location such as the refrigerator or basement to best preserve germination rates. Planting Instructions: Soil Preparation: Choose a clear, sunny location that is not in the shade of other trees and receives at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. Trees establish roots better in sandy, well-drained soils rather than heavy, poorly drained soil. Remove weeds, large rocks, and litter from the planting area. Leave small weeds and dead grass, they will enrich the soil when turned under. Spade or till the soil 6-8 inches deep. Loosening the soil will help the plant establish strong roots. If the soil is heavy or clay-like, mix in some sand or compost to improve drainage. Optionally, either form rows of soil beds or hills 4-6 inches high and at least 30 feet apart. This formation of ridges will help with drainage, ensure good airflow, and make harvesting or maintenance easier. Planting: Starting Indoors: Seeds require scarification, followed by a cold, moist stratification to break dormancy. To scarify, heat water to near boiling, not actively boiling, to 180F-195F. Then pour water into a heat-safe bowl with the seeds and let stand for 24 hours. Next, stratify by rolling seeds in a damp paper towel and placing in a resealable bag. Place the bag in the refrigerator to keep seeds at 35F-40F for 30 days, mimicking winter conditions. After the stratification period, seeds should be ready to germinate. To germinate seeds, place the bags in a warm 70F-90F area. After 10 days, plant the seeds in small pots with moist potting soil and in a warm, sunny location that is at least 65F, about 1 month after the last expected frost in spring. Keep the soil moist, allowing the top inch of soil to dry in between waterings. Once the seedlings have developed a few sets of leaves and are at least 6 inches in height, harden off seedlings then transplant outdoors in the spring, in a sunny location when temperatures are consistently above 60F. To transplant seedlings, prepare a transplant hole outdoors in a sunny, permanent location. Remove the plants carefully from the pots or flats and set them in the transplant holes, burying some of the stem in the ground. Pack the soil loosely around the plant and leave a slightly sunken area around each plant to hold water. Water the plants after transplanting. Directly Sowing: If directly sowing outdoors, scarify seeds then plant seeds in late summer to naturally cold-stratify seeds. Scarify seeds by heating water to near boiling, not actively boiling, to 180F-195F. Then pour water into a heat-safe bowl with the seeds and let stand for 24 hours. To plant, make holes 1 inch deep and spaced 20-30 feet apart down the rows of raised beds. Plant 1 seed per hole, then cover thinly with soil. Seedbeds can be covered with plastic film to promote germination. Water after planting. Planting Depth: 1 inch Within-Row Spacing: 20-30 feet Between-Row Spacing: 30 feet Care During the Season: Eastern Redbud Trees are low-maintenance. In Spring, the tree benefits from a slow-release fertilizer applied just before its famous pea-like flowers emerge on bare branches; this is the best window to perform light structural pruning after the blossoms fade to shape the canopy and remove any crossing "V-shaped" branches. During the Summer, young trees need consistent, deep watering once a week to establish their roots, while mature trees benefit from supplemental hydration during heatwaves to prevent leaf scorch and "canker," a common fungal stress response. As Fall arrives, maintain a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch around the base—avoiding the trunk—to regulate soil temperature and moisture as the tree prepares for dormancy. In Winter, the Redbud may be vulnerable to bark damage from rodents and "sunscald," so wrapping the trunks of young trees and installing hardware cloth can help; this dormant period is the ideal time to prune out dead or diseased wood to ensure the tree’s energy is focused on its breathtaking spring revival.
