A callback to the old school Marsala of days gone by, this is not the more ubiquitous (often dubious quality) sweet export, rather a bone dry expression of Catarratto that has undergone a process one might more likely associate with the Jura's coveted Vin Jaune. Born from an initial experiment back in 2013 when Fabio celebrated a plentiful vintage, a little of the excess Catarratto that would ordinarily become Gianciabianca he filled a small barrique with and forgot about. Untouched, and without topping up the barrel, a flor of wild yeast began to form on the surface of the wine which was left to develop for five years. This wine was made in exactly the same way, using grapes from 2018, macerated on their skins for three days before being pressed into the barrel, with no additions at any stage. A remarkable, completely natural phenomenon. Bone dry, the wine is a heady mix of all the complex flavours and textures that oxidation and flor-contact can bring. Fruits give way to woody hazelnut, toasted almond, turmeric and garam masala spice with crystals of salt, plus a little sweet vanilla from the barrel. Remarkably, all these heavy flavours are balanced by a beautifully fresh acidity, that makes the whole thing feel wonderfully alive. A great one to ponder after a big meal, or better still as you tackle some mature cheeses. Bravo Fabio!
