Eau de Toilette TThe list of materials used by Maxime Exler for his confounding perfume Firework might predispose you to expect something singed and burned, cold nights and the distinctive dry sulphurous drift of spent fireworks. Aromag, as ever, has a more considered vision. The Chinese invented fireworks - 花火 (huāhuǒ), literally 'fire flowers' - essentially decorative bombs of saltpetre pyrotechnics honed into extraordinarily timed displays of mineral-rich innards that dazzled onlookers with colour and sound. Italians are generally assumed to be the first users of fireworks in religious ceremonies and public celebrations. Aromag's Firework is a shock in its refusal to be predictable. This is a portrait of the firework process itself: the materials, the mortar, powder, accelerants, stars, lift charge, paper, card and wood. All of this rises, peaks and fades into the aftermath of the pyrotechnics, spent materials reflected in nostalgic composing. There is an unusual bitter-green note in the upper reaches of Firework, olibanum and mournful myrrh camouflaging the initial hit of gunpowder. A ticklish grind of pepper adds noticeable texture. This opens the soaring space for beautifully assembled smokiness, tobacco and dark vanillic rum. The gunpowder glitters like stardust painted across the night sky. Powdery grey-bruise orris, sandalwood, patchouli and supple guaiac wood infuse Firework with the sadness of dead pyrotechnics, burned paper, singed sky and the dissipating vapour of ephemeral spectacle. What a poignant thing Aromag's Firework is, a singular vision of scented fire flowers. Composition: Pepper*, Olibanum*, Myrrh, Gunpowder Tobacco, Incense, Rum* Orris*, Sandalwood*, Patchouli*, Leather, Guaiacwood The notes marked with an asterisk are derived from natural ingredients. Perfumer: Maxime Exler, 2023
