The Rotary FJ7352-2 hydraulic cylinder is the direct replacement for the Rotary lift it came off of. Cross-referenced as ALS-7502-56, it is the genuine Rotary part — same part number, same fit, and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Rotary hydraulic cylinder from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same. Specifications Part number: ALS-7502-56 Brand: Rotary Type: Genuine OEM hydraulic cylinder Fits: SP88 Hydraulic Line and Fittings Lift type: 2-post lift The cylinder is where hydraulic pressure becomes lift. Fluid pushed behind the piston drives the rod out, the rod raises the carriage or pulls the cables, and a check valve holds it up there until the lowering valve lets it back down. It's a simple, rugged part — until the rod seal wears or the barrel scores, at which point it can't hold pressure and the lift won't stay up. A hydraulic lift that won't hold height is telling you something before it fails outright. Drift-down, a spongy feel, milky fluid — these are early warnings, and the cheap fix is now. Ignore them and a weeping seal becomes a scored barrel becomes a whole cylinder; a tired pump becomes a burned-up motor. Worse, a lift that sags under load is a safety problem, not just a maintenance one. What lifts this hydraulic cylinder fits This hydraulic cylinder fits the lift models below. Click a model to open its visual parts breakdown — the exploded drawing with every part numbered, so you can confirm this is the right part for your exact lift before you order. SP88 — see the exploded parts breakdown for this lift Related parts for this lift The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit. Lock Release Air Cylinder - Rotary - ML50-1605 Cylinder Pin - Lower - Rotary - XX130082 Replacing your hydraulic cylinder Rebuilding a cylinder with a seal kit is bench work: tear it down, lay the parts out in order, confirm the bore and rod aren't scored, then reassemble with the new seals lubricated and bench-test for leaks before it goes back in. The order of the seals and the condition of the barrel make or break the job. Walk through the complete guide before you crack the end cap. Full step-by-step: how to replace a 2-post lift cylinder. Find the right part for your lift If you are not sure this part matches your setup, the fastest check is the visual breakdown: open our Rotary parts lookup, pick your model, and match your part against the drawing where every item is numbered. Can't read the model plate? our guide to finding your model number shows exactly where it lives on each lift type, and we are a phone call away if you would rather have us confirm it. Signs of a hydraulic problem Fittings and washers are small but leak often. Check every copper washer on a bleeder or banjo for crush and flattening, every o-ring boss for a weep, and every flare for a hairline crack at the cone. A fitting that keeps weeping after you snug it usually needs a fresh washer or o-ring, not more torque — over-tightening cracks the flare and makes it worse. Parts commonly replaced at the same time While the system is open, take care of the companions — the seal kit, the o-rings, the feed hose, and the oil you will need to refill and bleed. It is cheaper and cleaner than reopening the system for the piece you skipped. We keep the right specs for your lift and can kit it for you. Hydraulic fluid Most 2-post and 4-post lifts run hydraulic oil equivalent to ISO-32; some older units were filled with Dexron ATF. Check what your lift currently uses and do not mix the two — and defer to your lift's installation manual for the exact fill capacity, since it varies by model. Safety notes Treat the hydraulic system as pressurized until you have relieved it. Bleed in the correct order, keep the reservoir topped so the pump never sucks air, and confirm there is zero drift at full height before returning the lift to service. A cylinder or hose that weeps today is a failure waiting for the worst moment. Before you order Hydraulic components are specific to the lift's pressure and plumbing, so order by model and serial, not by eye. For a leaking cylinder, decide between a seal kit and a full replacement first — we can help — and plan on topping off and bleeding the system when the new part goes in. Confirm this is the right part before you order Lift manufacturers revise parts mid-production without changing the model name, so the same lift bought two years apart can take two different revisions of the same component. Before you order, find the model plate on the lift — on most 2-post lifts it rides on one of the columns at eye level, on 4-post lifts it is usually on a column or the power-unit side runway — and note the full model number and serial. The serial dates the lift to a production run, and that is what decides which revision fits. If the plate is painted over or missing, take a photo of the part you are replacing next to a tape measure and send it to us. Between the dimensions, the mounting pattern, and what lift it came off of, we can almost always identify the exact part before you spend money on the wrong one. Why buy your Rotary hydraulic cylinder from Auto Lift Services We install, inspect, and repair Rotary lifts every week — the ALS-7502-56 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.
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