The Rotary FJ7817 column component is the direct replacement for the Rotary lift it came off of. Cross-referenced as ALS-7536-46, it is the genuine Rotary part — same part number, same fit, and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Rotary column component from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same. Specifications Part number: ALS-7536-46 Brand: Rotary Type: Genuine OEM column component Fits: SPO15, SPO15 300 Series, SPO18, SPO18 300 Series Lift type: 2-post lift The column is the structural spine of the lift, and column components — base plate hardware, anchor bolts, shims, column caps, extensions, and the brackets that hang off them — are what keep that spine plumb and planted. Most column-side problems on a lift trace back to the floor, not the steel: concrete that is out of level between columns, anchor bolts that were driven into dusty holes, or shims that were skipped on the day of install. A column that is out of plumb loads the carriage, the slide blocks, and the locks unevenly, so the cheap hardware under the base plate quietly decides how long the expensive parts above it live. Related parts for this lift The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit. Right Column Extension - Rotary FJ7818 Getting a column component installed squareStart by knowing how far out the floor is. Set a yardstick on each column base location and shoot them with a transit. The columns need to end up within a quarter inch of each other; if the floor is more than an inch out, shims alone will not do it and the low side gets grouted as well.Anchor holes have to be clean before a wedge anchor goes in — concrete dust in the hole is the number one reason anchors spin later. Drill, then get the dust out of the hole itself, not just around it: a shop vac with a length of small plastic tubing pushed down into the hole pulls the dust out from the bottom, or brush the hole with an anchor-bolt brush and vacuum again. If you suspect the hole is oblong or you cannot get it clean, fill it about three quarters with anchor epoxy before the bolt goes in. Drive each anchor with the nut on and about an inch and a half of thread left above it — do not tighten yet. Level the column first, then drive the anchors down to two threads above the nut, snug them, and torque to 100 foot-pounds. If the torque wrench clicks without turning at all, the impact did the torque wrench’s job and probably overdid it.Shimming is done in pairs: raising one side of a column a shim’s thickness takes two shims, one under each edge of that side, so the base plate stays supported instead of rocking on a point. Level the column side to side until the bubble is centered between the lines — not just somewhere between them — then front to back, with a slight lean back away from the other column. If the gap under the base plate is wide, grout it: mix the grout stiff, clay-like, for a structural builder layer, and soupy for thin filler gaps, push it under the plate with a trowel or a wood block until it comes out the far side, and smooth the edge with a wet trowel. Grout needs 24 hours above 50 degrees to cure, and the anchor bolts only get their final torque after it has. Column-base checks worth doing Anchor bolts that turn with the nut — a spinning anchor is holding nothing and gets cut out and replaced, not retightened Nuts loose enough to move by hand, or bolts sitting proud enough to trip on Crushed, walked-out, or missing shims under the base plate Cracked or crumbling grout — once the grout breaks up, the column is back on its shims alone Concrete cracks running into the anchor pattern A column with loose anchors moves under load, and everything above it — carriage, locks, vehicle — moves with it. If an anchor spins or a base plate rocks, the lift is out of service until the anchoring is made right. That is not a keep-an-eye-on-it item. Why buy your Rotary column component from Auto Lift Services We install, inspect, and repair Rotary lifts every week — the ALS-7536-46 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302. We confirm the right part for your lift's serial and production year before you order. Every part ships as genuine Rotary — no aftermarket substitution unless you specifically ask for an aftermarket equivalent. If you also need companion wear items — cables, sheaves, seals, hardware — for the same repair, use our parts lookup and we will build the whole kit for your lift so you order once and finish the job.
