The name is the first thing to get past: flake soil is not soil. There is no soil in it, no compost, and nothing that came out of the ground. It is hardwood sawdust that has been deliberately fermented until the wood breaks down into something a larva or a detritivore can digest, and the "soil" in the name is just what it ends up looking like. Once you understand that, everything else about how to use it falls into place. The technique comes out of the Japanese beetle-keeping scene, where competitive breeders weigh larvae against each other and the quality of the feeding medium is the difference between a good beetle and a record one. Decades of that pressure produced a substrate that does one job extremely well: it makes hard wood edible. What is actually happening in the bag Wood is difficult to eat. The cellulose inside it is perfectly good food, but it is locked up in lignin, which almost nothing can digest directly. In a forest, fungi solve this slowly by rotting the wood over months and years. Fermentation solves it fast. Hardwood sawdust is mixed with water and a carbohydrate source, then seeded with microorganisms and turned repeatedly while it heats and works. The bacteria and micro-fungi break the lignin into shorter chains and leave the cellulose intact, and the resulting material is darker, softer and considerably richer in nitrogen than the wood that went in. That nitrogen enrichment is the part that grows large larvae. It is worth distinguishing three things that get muddled constantly. White-rotted hardwood is wood that fungi have degraded in place, and it keeps its structure. Kinshi is sawdust colonised by mushroom mycelium and used mainly for particular stag beetle larvae. Flake soil is the fermented option, and it is the most generally useful of the three across different animals. There is a fuller explanation in my write-up on what flake soil is. What to use it for Beetle larvae. This is the primary use and the one it was invented for. Rear larvae in firmly packed flake soil, replacing it when they have worked through most of the tub and returning a portion of the old material to preserve their gut fauna. Our Rainbow Stag Beetle larvae are reared on it, and it suits rhinoceros and flower beetle larvae equally. Millipedes. Mixed through the base layer it raises the nutritional value of the whole enclosure. Millipedes eat their substrate rather than merely living in it, and a colony on plain inert bedding is a colony being slowly starved. Worth adding for anything in the millipede range, and particularly for the fast-growing species that go through wood quickly. Isopods. Not required as a base layer, but a scatter worked into the top few centimetres gives a hard-breeding colony a genuine lift. Keepers of prolific species tend to notice the difference in brood size first. Useful across most of the isopod range. Bioactive setups. A component rather than the whole answer, mixed into a broader forest-floor base such as our ready-made invertebrate substrate to feed the cleanup crew working underneath the display. How to use it For beetle larvae, use it neat and pack it down. Loose medium is a problem because larvae need to hold an open tunnel, and a tub that collapses each time they move costs them energy they should be spending on growth. Moisten to the point where a squeezed handful holds together without releasing water, and no further. For millipedes and isopods, mix it through rather than layering it. Somewhere around a fifth to a quarter of the total volume is a sensible starting proportion, blended into a base that also contains leaf litter and coarser rotten wood for structure. My notes on building a full mix are in the isopod substrate guide. Keep the bag closed and somewhere cool between uses. It is a biologically active material, not an inert one, and it will keep working slowly wherever you leave it. Two things to avoid Never use softwood-based substrate for larvae. Pine, spruce and the rest carry resins with antifungal and insecticidal properties, and they are unsuitable for both the animals and the fungi they depend on. Everything here is hardwood. The other one is coco coir, which sits at the opposite end of the scale from this product. Coir holds water beautifully and contains essentially nothing a wood-feeder can use. For a springtail culture that is fine, since springtails graze surfaces rather than eating the medium. For beetle larvae and millipedes it is bulk without nutrition, and larvae fed on it do not do well. If you take one thing from this page, make it that fermented hardwood and coir are not alternatives to each other. Who this is for Anyone rearing beetle larvae needs it, and there is not really a substitute. For millipede keepers it is the single most effective upgrade you can make to an existing enclosure without changing anything else. For isopod keepers it is optional but rewarding, particularly if you are trying to push a breeding colony rather than just maintain one. Have a look at the other inverts collection for the beetles and less common species this substrate was designed around.
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