A t-shirt with something to say, the Good Tiemes Tee is anything but a bore. Featuring a unique front and back yoke that creates a well-placed horizontal seam line above the chest, this pattern is made for fun fabric and color combinations! The high and snug mockneck balances the wide and loose boxy fit of the body in perfect harmony. With the tunnel and ties option across the shoulder seams and back neckline, the ruched detailing can be pulled super tight or left to lay flat depending on your styling mood. Regardless of how you choose to wear yours, this tee is meant for having a good tieme! SKILLS Learning to sew with knits Overlock/serger stitch Zig-zag stitch Edgestitch Quartering method Hemming knits Optional: Creating a Tunnel with Ties Feeding Through PATTERN DETAILS Purchase includes a digital pattern file with sizes XXS-8X size range Skill level: Confident Beginner PDF pattern includes illustrated instruction documents, A0 copy shop files, and print at home files prepared for A4 & letter size paper Video tutorial sew along is available on our YouTube Channel MATERIALS NEEDED Self fabric (your main fabric) Matching all-purpose thread to your fabric Optional: Wooly nylon thread *for upper and lower loopers on a serger/overlock sewing machine (can also be used in the bobbin of a regular home sewing machine to increase elasticity of stitches) Optional: Heat & Bond *for ease of hemming knits Heat & Bond Soft Stretch Lite or Ultra fusible web adhesive is highly recommended! It adheres like regular fusible interfacing, but it keeps the stretchability of your knit fabrics. Keeps your hem flat, not bulky, and reduces any waviness. FABRIC REQUIREMENTS The Good Tiemes Tee is designed for knit fabrics with a high minimum stretch percentage of 80% crossgrain (selvedge to selvedge). Due to the nature of a mockneck t-shirt, the neckband is snug to fit around your head and so you must use a fabric with a high enough stretch percentage to be able to comfortably pull the garment on overhead. The yoke pieces will also benefit from this high stretch percentage, as the neckline needs to stretch to fit overhead too. The remaining pattern pieces can be cut from a much lower stretch percentage knit fabric, as they are very loose fitting! The neckband and yoke will benefit from a knit fabric with good recovery – think of fabrics with a small amount of elastane or spandex. A few recommended fabrics include cotton jersey knit, bamboo/modal jersey knit, power mesh, & stretch velvet. While almost any stretch knit material with an 80% stretch percentage will work for the Good Tiemes Tee, there are some suggestions to keep in mind. Lightweight fabrics with a nice drape will fall closer to the body and might be a good idea for the yoke pieces on View B. If you go too heavy or too stiff for the yoke fabric (especially on View B), then you might end up with a very structural appearance along the curved shoulders and could result in a bit of a pointed look at the yoke shoulder seam and sleeve juncture. Pairing a heavier, stiffer fabric on the bottom could work nicely though! The 80% minimum stretch percentage is really aimed at the #6 Neckband piece. You can easily go down in the stretch percentage needed for the rest of the pattern pieces! In fact, you can mix knits and wovens in this pattern! Use a stretch knit for the #6 Neckband, #1 Front Yoke, and #4 Back Yoke, but feel free to play around with a non-stretch woven material for the rest of the pattern pieces. For View A, you can sub out the #7 Tunnel for bias tape as well if you prefer. View A can be cut completely in stretch mesh, but this may add to the difficulty level. FIT RECOMMENDATIONS Choose your size based on your full bust measurement. If you are between sizes, size down. The fit is intended to be an oversized, boxy tee with a slightly cropped length. The most fitted part of the Good Tiemes Tee is the mockneck. The rest of the garment is loosey-goosey! The yoke creates elongated shoulder seams and a horizontal line above the chest. This horizontal seam line is not meant to be fitted, rather comfortably relaxed, especially in the intended knit fabric with lots of stretch. The sleeves are drafted as larger, classic t-shirt shapes at the opening and cut short into an interesting shape at the top to align perfectly with the yoke seam. The body is intended to fit oversized and on the shorter side, with the hem falling at the high hip area (approximately 2.5” {6.3cm} below the waist). Shorten or lengthen the body to your desired length at the shorten/lengthen line on the #2 Front and #3 Back pattern pieces. The Good Tiemes Tee is drafted for a 5’8” (172cm) tall person meant to fit as a cropped tee in length. You may wish to shorten or lengthen the tee accordingly. Pattern pieces #1 Front Yoke, #2 Front, #3 Back, and #4 Back Yoke all have a shorten/lengthen line. If you are shortening or lengthening the overall length of the tee more than 1” (2.5cm), it may be a good idea to distribute the length amongst the yoke pieces and the body pieces to maintain the correct design proportions. Measure the length of the yoke height from HPS (High Point Shoulder) on your own body to determine where you would like the horizontal seam line to hit. It is drafted to fall just above the armpit crease line. The pattern origins begin with View A (including the ties, hence the name Good “Tie”mes Tee) and was drafted accordingly for the extra volume and shoulder seam length to provide the necessary gathering with the cinched ties. This means that View B results in a bit of an oversized appearance at the shoulder seam curves and this can be exaggerated depending on fabrication. You may wish to size down for View B if you want a closer fitting shoulder seam curve, especially if you are using a sturdier knit fabric. If you choose a very lightweight, drapey fabric, the shoulder seam curves will fall more naturally around your body. All choices are valid, this information is just here to help you achieve the look you want with your tee! SIZE GUIDE Find the size that corresponds closest to your personal measurements in the size chart below. Patterns are designed for a 5’8” (172cm) tall person. The following measurements are needed to determine your size: FULL BUST | The fullest part of your chest, often times across the apex WAIST | The smallest part of your torso, directly underneath your rib cage and above your hip bones LOW HIP | The widest part of your hips, patterns drafted for 8” below the waistline TECHNICAL SKETCH
Related
Related