Green Skin Bitter Melon is a smooth-warted green heirloom gourd that stands as a culinary gem for those seeking a distinctive taste and holistic wellness with its striking appearance and numerous health benefits. This remarkable vegetable that offers a wealth of benefits for gardeners and cooks alike. Green Skin Bitter melon is widely grown in Asia, Africa, and the Caribbean. It has a distinct flavor that combines bitterness with a touch of sweetness. Delicious for stir-frying, sauteeing, stuffing, pickling, or even juicing, bitter melon is prized as a cultural super food and has shown to be one of the healthiest vegetables in the food kingdom. Bitter Melon is easy to grow in warm climates and thrives in a variety of soil conditions, making it a great option for gardeners looking for a resilient and productive vegetable. Also Known As: Bitter Gourd, Bitter Squash, Bitter Melon, Bitter Cucumber, Smooth Bitter Melon, Balsam Pear, Kyushu, Karela, Goya, Paval, Ampalaya, Karavila, Fu Qua, Fukwa, Peria. Plant Name: Bitter Melon, Green Skin Latin Name: Momordica charantia Days to Germinate: 7-14 Days to Harvest: 60 Plant Height: 10 - 15 Feet Spread: 3 - 6 Feet Growth Habit: Vining USDA Zones: 3-11 Lifespan: Annual, Perennial in Zones 9-11 Brand: TomorrowSeeds Sunlight: Full Sun, Partial Shade Pollination: Heirloom, Open-Pollinated GMO: No Fungicide-Treated Seeds*: No Seeds Packed For**: 2026 *Fungicide-treated seeds protect the seedlings from diseases until they are up and growing. Do not eat treated seeds. **Seeds are freshly packed for the growing season of the year listed. Seeds are still viable beyond pack date. Store in a cool and dry location such as the refrigerator or basement to best preserve germination rates. Planting Instructions: Soil Preparation: Choose an area with heavy, well-draining soil that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. Remove weeds, large rocks, and litter from the planting area. Leave small weeds and dead grass, they will enrich the soil when turned under. Spade or till the soil 8-12 inches deep. Loosening the soil will help the plant establish strong roots. Plants grow best in soil with lots of organic matter. You may optionally add fertilizer or organic material such as compost, leaves, or rotted hay to mix into the soil at this point. For small gardens, scatter 2-3 tablespoons of fertilizer evenly and work into the top 2-3 inches of soil for each hill or 2 foot by 2 foot planting area. For larger gardens, scatter 2-3 pounds of a complete fertilizer for each 100 square feet of planting area. Work fertilizer or organic material into the soil and leave the surface smooth. Form rows of soil beds 4-6 inches high and at least 3 feet apart. This formation of ridges will help with drainage. Planting: Bitter melon grows best in warm weather. Starting Indoors: For an earlier bitter melon harvest, you may optionally start planting indoors in containers 4-6 weeks before the last expected frost date in Spring, keeping seedlings at least 70F. Harden off then transplant seedlings outdoors in a sunny location when the soil temperature is above 65F. To transplant seedlings, prepare a transplant hole outdoors in a sunny location. Remove the plants carefully from the pots or flats and set them in the holes, burying some of the stem in the ground. Pack the soil loosely around the plant and leave a slightly sunken area around each plant to hold water. Water the plants after transplanting. Train plants to climb a 6-8 foot trellis or fence as they establish. Directly Sowing: If directly sowing bitter melon outdoors, plant in late spring when the soil warms to at least 65F. Fall planting is not typically recommended but is possible in climates with mild winters, with consistent 70-80F conditions, or if growing indoors >70F and using supplemental grow lights. To plant, make holes 1/2 inch deep and spaced 18 inches apart down the rows of raised beds. Plant 2-3 seeds per hole. If choosing to thin to the strongest plant, determine the strongest and healthiest plant, then remove all other plants, narrowing to a single plant per hole. Cover seeds thinly with soil and water after planting. Train plants to climb a 6-8 foot trellis or fence as they establish. Planting Depth: 1/2-1 inch Within-Row Spacing: 18 inches Between-Row Spacing: 3 feet, trellis Care During the Season: Watering: Water the plants deeply, soaking the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches, once to twice a week. If there is no rainfall, water 3-4 times a week. Sandy soils may need to be watered more often than heavy clay soils. Mulching around plants can help retain moisture. Weeding: Keeping plants weed-free improves production. If plowing or hoeing, do not dig deeper than 1 inch to prevent from cutting the feeder roots. Fertilizing: Once seedlings are established, 2-3 weeks after germination, you may optionally apply 2 tablespoons of a complete fertilizer around each hole, or 1-2 pounds per 100 square feet, without letting the fertilizer touch the plants. Optionally, continue fertilizing every 3-4 weeks as plants grow, especially after flowering begins. Water plants after fertilizing. Insecticides: Insecticides may be used to protect plants. Bt-based insecticides and sulfur are organic options that can be used for prevention. Sulfur also has fungicidal properties and helps in controlling many diseases. Before using a pesticide, read the label and follow cautions, warnings and directions. Diseases: If spots or mold appear, treat plants with an approved fungicide. Neem oil, sulfur, and other fungicides may be used. When using fungicides always follow label directions. Harvesting: Bitter melon requires close attention at harvest time as they can ripen quickly. Bitter melon is ready to harvest when the fruits are firm, green, and have reached their full size but are still immature; about 8 inches long, shiny, and tender, with the seeds still soft and white. This is usually 12-16 weeks after planting or 8-10 days after flowering. If it starts turning yellow or orange, it is overripe and may taste more bitter than usual. Cut bitter gourds from the vine using a sharp knife or scissors, leaving a small stem attached.
