***PRICE IS PER PAIR. USE THIS SHIPPING FORM AND SEND US YOUR CALIPERS FOR OUR WORLD-CLASS RESTORATION!*** Similar to the Early S-Caliper, the late model S-Caliper features a redesigned nose section (more like the 910 caliper) and has a greenish/gold dichromate finish. These are virtually the exact same forged calipers that were used on the 908 race cars. The 908 caliper is of the same forging but with a quick change pad mechanism for rapid removal in the pits. Light weight, 48mm piston and big fat (endurance racing) pads make this a fantastic vintage caliper. Get that sought after greenish/gold tint of the later model 910 "bull nose" S-Calipers: Complete disassembly to bare core. Removal of stuck or frozen (probably rusted) pistons. De-anodizing and polishing of caliper cores. Masking knock back pins. Re-sealing caliper cores with proper dichromate finish. Replating of all fasteners and crossover lines. Vibratory polishing of pistons (you'll probably need new pistons). Cleaning and recoating piston tops. New factory ATE seals and dust covers throughout. Reassembly with pistons in proper position. Protect your investment. Your valuable calipers will look like the day they came off the factory assembly line (probably better). This is why we say we don’t rebuild calipers, we restore them. We have begun manufacturing specialized pad hardware kits for all steel Porsche calipers. They are the most affordable hardware kits on the market, and the new zinc plated finish looks a lot better than 40-50 years of rust and grime! AN IMPORTANT NOTE REGARDING FILIFORM CORROSION AND YOUR S-CALIPERS Filiform corrosion is a special form of corrosion that occurs under older anodized coatings in the form of randomly distributed threadlike filaments. Filiform corrosion is also known as "underfilm Corrosion" or "filamentary corrosion". WE DO NOT CAUSE FILIFORM CORROSION (so we are not responsible for it's consequences). This type of corrosion only affects the calipers functionality if it is in the bore seal or the fluid inlet cover. We can "attempt" a repair using a special high temperature epoxy to fill and repair the corrosion (no, it's not JB Weld). The fluid inlet is the easiest repair. Once it gets inside the piston bore it can be a game changer (see red arrows). While we can fill and machine that surface back, it can be a 50:50 shot and... a new caliper may be in order. Below is a classic example of bad filiform corrosion in the piston bore. ANOTHER IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to dissimilar metals, the ATE factory plated the pistons in the famous S-Caliper. Excellent idea, however nearly all of the restorations we've seen need new pistons because this plating flakes around the bore seal. We've developed our proprietary "DuroAno" aluminum pistons to complete your S-Caliper restoration. You'll never have to worry about this issue again. Be sure to check our excellent prices for rotors and pads. PLEASE DO NOT SEND IN YOUR BANJO FITTINGS, PINS, SPRINGS, OR MOUNTING HARDWARE. WE NO LONGER HAVE THE ABILITY TO HANDLE YOUR HARDWARE AND/OR YOUR EXTRA FASTENERS. We cannot guarantee the integrity of old mounting fasteners and pad kits. Regarding mounting fasteners, we recommend you purchase these items "new" vs. using old fasteners. Regarding pad kits, again, we recommend purchasing new pad kits (springs and pins) and the spring tension in your old kits can be out of spec due to years of heat cycling.
