Les Devants is the flagship red at Domaine de la Sarazinière, and a cuvée with real history behind it. The vines on this south-facing lieu-dit at Bussières were planted between the 1930s and the 1950s by Claude Seigneuret, who founded the estate, and they remain the source of its most structured red. On deep alkaline clay-limestone, these seventy to ninety year old Gamay vines give small yields of concentrated fruit. Philippe and Guillaume ferment through a long cool maceration of nearly a month, fully destemmed to keep tannin extraction in hand, then age the wine in neutral oak for ten to twelve months. What comes out is a Mâcon Rouge of rare complexity: white pepper, dark spice, kirsch and dried herbs, with smooth integrated tannins and a long savoury finish. Gamay on limestone is a different world from Beaujolais, and one worth knowing.