Why This Watch Matters Still one of the most underrated brands in vintage watches, Movados continue to stun us when we have the pleasure of offering them– this M95 in 14k yellow gold is no different. The Full Story The vintage Movado market has surged in recent years, elevating the brand to darling underdog status among collectors. High quality examples continue to pop up and achieve great value in public sales. The brand was founded in 1881, and ever since, it's been known as one of Switzerland's most diverse watch brands, from a product perspective. Among its historic catalog are stunning dress watches, professional tool watches, design-driven releases, and entry-level models. The in-house Movado M caliber family was released in 1938 as the world's first modular chronograph movement. What exactly does modular mean and why does it matter? In the early years of wrist chronographs, there was one major issue– servicing. Watchmakers found it difficult to keep up with the new technology and the intricate components. Movado's solution, in their first in-house chronograph movements, was to build a chronograph module on top of one of their time-only calibers. By removing three easily accessible screws from the M95 or M90, the entire chronograph module can be removed as one piece. From there, servicing is relatively easy. This, at the time, was revolutionary. One thing to note about the caliber M95 is that the bottom pusher starts and stops the chronograph and the top pusher resets. This is the opposite of conventional chronographs. Today, the M95 movement is heralded as an under-the-radar gem. Movado was playing in a different league from the 1930s up through the 60s and the M95 was their go-to chronograph movement all along the way. It held up in design and reliability for over 30 years of service in the Movado catalog– only to be replaced by Zenith's El Primero when the two brands joined forces in 1969. Wrapped around the M95 in the watch we have here today is a 14k yellow gold case manufactured by François Borgel. The man François Borgel was born in 1856 and came to be one of the most important innovators and inventors the Swiss watchmaking world would ever know – the "impermeable" case. While we might take it for granted today given the ubiquity of the water-resistant case construction, such as Rolex's Oyster case, Borgel's 1891 creation was in fact the first watch patented with a screw-down caseback. In the following decades, the "FB" and key insignia found its way inside the casebacks of some of the best brands in Switzerland. The company supplied cases to Patek Philippe (for references such as the 1463 and 565), Vacheron Constantin, and, as is evident by the watch we have here, Movado. This is an excellent example of what collectors love about vintage Movado. At this price point, collectors would be hard-pressed to find better finishing on every part of a wrist watch. The M95 Sub-Sea in any iteration is a great find but this later example in 14k with "kris" or "snake" sub-dial hands is near the pinnacle. This example is honest with some light polishing to the case yet a gorgeous warm patina to the gold that is stunning in person. The dial is one of the best you will find with a creamy eggshell appearance and full lume plots matching the patina of the hands perfectly. For more information about the Movado M95 Sub-Sea chronograph and all of its variants and legend, see Rich Fordon's overview of the model over on Rescapement. The watch is paired with a navy blue suede strap to bring out the beautiful blue on the center seconds hand The Fine Print Maker: MovadoModel: M95 Sub-Sea ChronographReference: 95-224-568Year: Circa 1966Case No: 142Material: 14k yellow goldDimensions: 35mm diameter; 12.5 thicknessCrystal: PlexiglassLume: Yes, tritiumCaliber: Movado, manually-wound, caliber 95MBracelet/Strap: HODINKEE Blue Suede Watch StrapLug Width: 18mmBox/Papers: No What We Love And What You Should Know Things We Love: Legendary M95 chronograph caliber "Kris" or "snake" sub-dial hands 14k yellow gold case Honest overall condition Things To Know: Scratches and warm patina on case Previously lightly polished This Movado chronograph is in overall great and honest condition. The case has some light scratches and has been polished but the lugs show their original lines. Overall, there is a patina to the case that presents as warm. Concentrated patina has developed around the inner edge of the crystal as well as under the lugs and underside where the caseback meets the midcase. The dial is in excellent condition with an even patina throughout presenting an off white eggshell color. The applied hour markers have developed patina. The lume on the dial is remarkably full and undamaged having aged to a cream patina. The lume in the hands is full and matches that of the dial well. The handset has developed patina overall. The blued steel center seconds hand is vibrant. The sub-dial hands have darkened over the years but match other examples of this reference and variant well. The dial, crown, case, and movement are signed by Movado. This watch was photographed on a 175mm/6.9inch wrist.
