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Marvella Sappharine / Saphiret Three Strand Smoky Grey and Chocolate Bronze Faux Pearl Bracelet with Cluster Slide Clasp
GBP 360.00
Bramble & Lily
Verified independent store
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Marvella Sappharine / Saphiret Three Strand Smoky Grey and Chocolate Bronze Faux Pearl Bracelet with Cluster Slide Clasp featuring a three strand bracelet of smoky grey pearls and
amber glass faceted beads with purple and bronze rondelles and clear AB spacer beads. This beautiful bracelet from Marvella's 'Dynasty' line 1958-1962 comprises a beautiful cluster slide clasp with a rectangular faceted sappharine / saphiret, (we will explore both). It has two creamy pearls topped by claw-set clear rhinestone 'eyes', two navette blue green AB rhinestones, two 'chevrons' of round AB rhinestones (the chevrons spin freely at the base of the pearls), a larger pear-shaped stone with multi colour foil backing (some wear to backing), individual blue and brown round rhinestones, and an oval flat smooth agate or tiger glass stone in a lacy dog tooth setting. The clasp is stamped 'MARVELLA©' directly into the back (block stamp), and it has a wonderfully discreet slide clasp topped with a single blue rhinestone. It measures 19cm long, and the cluster measures 2.5cm high and 3.3cm wide, weighing 37.8g. This gorgeous bracelet is a piece of Marvella history that includes an elusive sappharine / saphiret with a rich chocolate brown and deep blue flash. Saphirets originated in Gablonz in the Victorian era, they were made by adding gold dust to sapphire blue glass through an oxidising process, they yield a warm brown tone with a blue flash when tilted in the light - their production ended when gold prices rose too high. The 1950's German revival of saphiret, namely sappharines, known as the 'modern cousin of Saphiret', drew interest from makers like Weiss, Regency, Florenza, Hobe, as well as the House of Dior, who also incorporated them into their pieces. This is the only piece we have found by Marvella, research shows a set by Hobe with a near identical design including sapparines / sapphirets and art glass stones, but we are unable to find any evidence of a collaboration between the two makers. Marvella emerged in the early 20th century as a trailblazer in American costume jewellery, specialising in high quality imitation pearls and simulated gems. Founded by Sol E. Weinrich in New York around 1906–1911, the Weinrich Bros. Co. established its base in Philadelphia, with a New York branch soon following. The "Marvella" trademark debuted in 1911 for faux pearl necklaces, drawing from Art Deco influences with gold plated metal, enamel overlays, faceted beads, and crystal rhinestones. By 1950, Marvella rebranded as Marvella Pearls, Inc., honing its focus on pearls during the post-war fashion surge. This era saw multi strand knotted necklaces and bib styles flourish, blending faux pearls with rhinestones, decorative clasps, and aurora borealis beads for iridescent shifts. Signed pieces like "Marvella©" on clasps captured Hollywood glamour, filling department stores. In 1965, the company became Marvella, Inc., diversifying its lines until its 1982 acquisition by Crystal Brands Inc., alongside Trifari and Monet. Later shifts under Liz Claiborne and Monet Group relocated production overseas. Marvella's legacy endures in vintage markets, with pre-1950 Art Deco geometrics and 1950s ornate clusters evoking timeless luxury for collectors.
