To open a bottle is to unleash a liquid kaleidoscope. A rare combination of sumptuous opulence and polished elegance. As a tribute to its rugged force, its softness, and the debt it owes to the soil from which it rises, Masseto was named after the rock-hard clusters of blue clay called ‘massi’ that form on the vineyard’s surface. Winemaker notes Intense in colour the nose immediately reveals complexity and freshness with hints of red berries, sweet spices, and a slight aroma of toasted wood. On the palate silky with a fine, smooth texture, supported by a vibrant fruitiness and a lively acidity, all perfectly integrated. A long, intense finish concludes the tasting. 2021 Wine Advocate 95: The 2021 Masseto is back to being 100% Merlot. Recent past vintages saw a tiny part of Cabernet Franc. That second varietal in the blend represents the proverbial "tax" one must pay in the face of climate change, especially when making wine on the sun-drenched Tuscan Coast. This is a very rich and elaborate expression with the extract, tannic tightness and the hefty 15.5% alcohol content to match. It comes off as quite big-boned or monotone. The wine is redolent of blackberry confit and cooked cherry, with a wide range of sweet oak spices to close. There is dark chocolate with a thin lining of creamy mint filling. Within the context of that fullness and generous fruit weight, Masseto is quite a commitment in terms of price and further cellaring. More bottle aging is an absolute requirement. James Suckling 98: Blueberries and black olives with violets and hints of sage, as well as rosemary flowers. Full and powerful with lots of fruit and vanilla on the palate. A rich and flavorful red, yet held together beautifully. Muscular and powerful. Needs five or six years to come together. Give it time. Decanter 99: In 2021, Masseto returns to its original 100% Merlot concept, following two years which saw the inclusion of 15% Cabernet Franc. Following a mild and wet winter, spring was dry and the summer was characterised by higher than average temperatures and periods of drought. Luckily, the vines were quenched by the water reserves built up at the beginning of the year. Masseto 2021 really has everything: it's vertical in shape and saline in character, with succulence of fruit, freshness of profile and finesse of tannins. Mediterranean herbs accompany ripe dark fruit scents and flavours which are yet to reveal all their depth and charm. 2022 Wine Advocate 97: Currently on the market, the 2022 Masseto is 100% Merlot grown on the estate’s distinctive blue clay soils. The wine immediately impresses with freshness, brightness and clarity. It shows firm but integrated tannins with a subtle salty note attributed to sodium-rich clays. According to proprietor Lamberto Frescobaldi, the magic of Masseto lies in its ability to stretch and consolidate across the palate, wrapping itself seamlessly in a kind of symbiosis that feels both expansive and complete. His point comes alive in this edition. Crafted for collectors, this vintage is intense and full yet never tiring, remaining solar and generous. The élevage is deliberately restrained with reduced wood influence despite the use of four coopers, including tonnelleries Taransaud and Baron, and 80% new oak, allowing the Merlot to remain dulcet and precise. James Suckling 97: A solid and structured red with blackcurrant, chocolate and walnut aromas and underlying toasted wood. Medium- to full-bodied with chewy tannins and a chewy, savory finish. Hints of coconut and toasted oak. It’s muscular and toned. It needs time to soften. Best after 2028. Vinous 95: The 2022 Masseto is elegant and polished, just as it was when I first tasted it a few months ago. Bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, menthol and cinnamon all meld together nicely in the glass. The lighter style of the year is evident, but there are no hard edges or awkward contours. The 2022 is a super-refined Masseto. Decanter 98: The summer was so arid in 2022 that the vines shut down and ripening was halted until mid-August rains arrived. This helped to preserve acidity in the grapes, giving sensational freshness to balance the rich and finely structured palate. Masseto 2022, then, combines the best of both worlds: fruit ripeness and concentration, and freshness and poise. It's not as immediately seductive as the 2021, but there is so much potential in this long-lived vintage. Scents of cool, damp earth, dark hedgerow berries, Mediterranean scrub, and cocoa and wood give a sense of what is to come once time has untangled everything. Zingy, crunchy acidity steals the show early on, segueing into a mouthful of succulent yet dense dark berries and spice imbued with plenty of energy. Then some balsamic herbs and floral notes lighten the palate, before a touch of salinity and some bitter herbs emerge on the finish, with a refrain of bright cherry. Something special.
