Monique French Shallot Sets are a great choice for gardeners who want tasty green onions early in the growing season and storage shallots later in the summer. Monique French shallots are semi-long shaped bulbs with rust colored skin and light pink flesh. They are highly desired by chefs for their easy-to-peel elongated bulbs and high sugar profile, perfectly suiting them for caramelizing. In contrast to onions, red shallots have thinner layers and are quicker to lose their pungency in cooking, leaving a delicate yet high depth of flavor while retaining their crunch. When raw, they have a powerful flavor with less bite. Shallots are excellent for roasting whole in tarte tatins and curries, pairing with chicken and fish, caramelizing with steak, pickling, and chopped in soffritos and vinaigrettes. Monique are usually 3-4 inches long at maturity and store well after curing. About Shallot Sets or Bulbs: Shallot sets and Onion sets are small starter bulbs specifically for gardening. Shallot sets are reliable and easy to grow, they establish quickly, and are easy to plant compared to seeds or transplants. Plant in Fall for an early Summer harvest or in early Spring for a harvest in late Summer. Also Known As: Echalote, Esharotto, Ulle, Torshi, Mooseer, Sibuya, Shallot Starts, Echalion, French Shallot, Red Shallot, Pink Shallot, Banana Shallot. Plant Name: Shallot, Monique F1 Latin Name: Allium cepa aggeratum Days to Germinate: 7-14 Days to Harvest: 85 (Spring Planting) - 240 (Fall Planting) Plant Height: 1 - 2 Feet Spread: 6 - 12 Inches Growth Habit: Clumping, Bulbous, Long Day USDA Zones: 2-11 Lifespan: Biennial Brand: TomorrowSeeds Sunlight: Full Sun, Partial Shade Pollination: Hybrid GMO: No Fungicide-Treated Seeds*: No Seeds Packed For**: 2026 *Fungicide-treated seeds protect the seedlings from diseases until they are up and growing. Do not eat treated seeds. **Seeds are freshly packed for the growing season of the year listed. Seeds are still viable beyond pack date. Store in a cool and dry location such as the refrigerator or basement to best preserve germination rates. Planting Instructions: Soil Preparation: Choose an area with heavy, well-draining soil that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. Remove weeds, large rocks, and litter from the planting area. Leave small weeds and dead grass, they will enrich the soil when turned under. Spade or till the soil 8-12 inches deep. Loosening the soil will help the plant establish strong roots. Plants grow best in soil with lots of organic matter. You may optionally add fertilizer or organic material such as compost, leaves, or rotted hay to mix into the soil at this point. For small gardens, scatter 2-3 tablespoons of fertilizer evenly and work into the top 2-3 inches of soil for each hill or 2 foot by 2 foot planting area. For larger gardens, scatter 2-3 pounds of a complete fertilizer for each 100 square feet of planting area. Work fertilizer or organic material into the soil and leave the surface smooth. Form rows of soil beds 4-6 inches high and at least 6 inches apart. This formation of ridges will help with drainage. Planting: Shallots grow best in temperatures between 55F - 75F. They can tolerate cooler temperatures during early growth but require warmer conditions as they develop bulbs. Plant shallot sets in the spring as soon as the soil can be worked, about 2-4 weeks before the last frost in spring. Optionally, start shallot sets indoors in planting cells 4-6 weeks before the last frost in Spring. Harden off, then transplant outdoors, spacing sets 4 inches apart down rows when the soil has warmed, and all danger of frost has passed in Spring. For fall planting to overwinter and harvest in the following spring, direct sow sets outdoors 4-6 weeks before the first expected frost. Applying mulch or fabric, or planting in beds,cold frames, or low tunnels is strongly recommended if overwintering to prevent bolting in the spring. To plant, make holes 3/4 inch deep and spaced 4 inches apart down the rows of raised beds. Plant 1 shallot set per hole, with the tip pointing upwards and roots downwards, and with the pointed tip just showing at the soil surface. Water after planting. You may optionally cover the ground with a black weed-suppressing membrane, and plant shallot sets through the slits. Shallot sets can also be planted in containers at least 18 inches wide and deep. If growing for green shallots, plant only 2 inches apart. Planting Depth: 3/4 inch Within-Row Spacing: 4 inches Between-Row Spacing: 6-12 inches Care During the Season: Watering: Water the plants deeply, soaking the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches, once a week. If there is no rainfall or weather is dry and windy, water 2 times a week, but stop watering once the bulbs have swollen in mid-summer. Weeding: Keeping plants weed-free improves production. If plowing or hoeing, do not dig to deeply to prevent from cutting the feeder roots. Cut off any flower stems as soon as they start to form, otherwise the plant’s energy will go into producing the flower rather than swelling the bulb. Fertilizing: Once shallot plants have 5-6 leaves, you may optionally apply a nitrogen-rich fertilizer, without letting the fertilizer touch the plants. Use about a 1/2 cup of fertilizer for each 10 feet of shallot row. Scatter the fertilizer evenly between the rows around the plants then water the shallots. Each leaf on an shallot plant forms a ring in the bulb, so more leaves result in more rings and a larger bulb. Insecticides: Shallots have few insect problems, but insecticides may be used to protect plants. Bt-based insecticides and sulfur are organic options that can be used for prevention. Sulfur also has fungicidal properties and helps in controlling many diseases. Before using a pesticide, read the label and follow cautions, warnings and directions. Diseases: If spots or mold appear, treat plants with an approved fungicide. Neem oil, sulfur, and other fungicides may be used. When using fungicides always follow label directions. Harvesting: Shallot sets planted in spring can be harvested in mid-summer to early fall, while shallot sets planted in fall are ready to be harvested in summer of the following year. Dry bulb shallots are ready to harvest when the main stem gets weak and falls over, and at least half of the leaves brown and die back. Once tops have fully collapsed, stop watering and allow the bulbs to dry in the soil for a few days if the weather is dry. Pull the plants out of the soil and cure the shallots by leaving them out in the sun or laying them in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area for 2-3 weeks until the outer skins are papery, and the necks are fully dry. Once cured, trim the tops and roots, let them keep drying in baskets or boxes and store them in a cool, dry, airy place. If growing for shallot scallions, harvest as soon as they are pencil sized and until they begin to form bulbs.
