Blue and Green Mycedium Chalice Coral

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QUICK STATS Care Level: Easy to ModerateCoral Type: LPS / Chalice-Type CoralTemperament: Peaceful to Semi-Aggressive by GrowthPhotosynthetic: YesPlacement: Lower to MiddleLighting: Low to ModerateWater Flow: Moderate, IndirectApproximate Purchase Size: Varies by Frag SizeApproximate Max Size: Plating / Encrusting Colony Growth Depends on Stability, Space, and Lighting BLUE AND GREEN MYCEDIUM The Blue and Green Mycedium is a unique LPS coral known for its sculpted plating growth, textured surface, and attractive blue-green coloration. Depending on the specimen and lighting, the base may appear blue, teal, gray-blue, green, or turquoise, often with brighter green eyes, mouths, or growth edges. Mycedium corals are often grouped with chalice-style corals in the aquarium hobby and may also be called Elephant Nose Coral, Peacock Coral, Cup Coral, or Mycedium Chalice. They grow in thin plated, folded, or angular shapes that can add structure and color to lower rockwork or shaded reef areas. It is basically a coral that decided flat was too boring and made itself weird on purpose. The Blue and Green Mycedium is photosynthetic and receives much of its energy from reef lighting, but it can also benefit from occasional feeding. It generally does best with stable water parameters, low to moderate lighting, and moderate indirect flow that keeps debris from settling on the coral’s surface. This coral is usually considered peaceful to semi-aggressive, depending on placement and nearby corals. It may not be as openly dramatic as a torch coral, but it can still compete for space as it grows and may irritate or damage neighboring corals if placed too close. Quiet coral warfare is still coral warfare, just with fewer waving tentacles. Note: Image is a representation of what to expect. The coral you receive may vary slightly in size, color intensity, eye coloration, growth edge, plating shape, and overall appearance. AQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS AQUARIUM SIZE A minimum aquarium size of 20 gallons or larger can work for a Blue and Green Mycedium, provided the aquarium is mature and stable. Larger systems provide better water stability and more room for placement as the coral grows. Mycedium does not require a large aquarium, but it does require stable chemistry and enough room to plate or encrust outward over time. A tiny frag may look harmless at first, but reef tanks specialize in turning small plugs into future real estate disputes. PLACEMENT RECOMMENDATIONS The Blue and Green Mycedium is best placed in the lower to middle areas of the aquarium where it receives low to moderate lighting and moderate indirect flow. Start lower if the coral is new, freshly shipped, or coming from lower lighting, then adjust slowly if needed. Rock Placement: Place on stable rockwork where the coral has room to encrust, plate, or fold outward. Angled placement can help show off the color and reduce debris buildup. Sandbed Placement: Temporary sandbed placement can work during acclimation, especially if the coral is newly shipped or light intensity is high. Long-term placement is usually better on secured rockwork or a stable frag mount. Shaded Areas: Mycedium can often tolerate lower-light zones and may look especially good along angled ledges, lower structures, or partially shaded rock faces. Spacing: Leave space between Blue and Green Mycedium and nearby corals. It can grow outward and may compete with neighboring corals over time. It may look calm, but it is still a living pancake with ambitions. WATER PARAMETERS Blue and Green Mycedium does best in clean, stable reef conditions. Stability is more important than chasing perfect numbers. Sudden swings in alkalinity, salinity, nutrients, or temperature can cause fading, tissue stress, recession, or stalled growth. Temperature: 75-79°FpH Level: 8.1-8.4Salinity: 1.024-1.026 specific gravityAlkalinity: 8-10 dKHCalcium: 400-450 ppmMagnesium: 1250-1350 ppmNitrate: 2-15 ppmPhosphate: 0.03-0.10 ppm Avoid ultra-low nutrient systems. Mycedium can do well in clean aquariums, but a completely stripped reef may lead to pale coloration, weak growth, or poor tissue health. “Clean” and “starved” are different words for a reason, despite reef keepers bravely trying to merge them. LIGHTING The Blue and Green Mycedium generally prefers low to moderate lighting. It can adapt to different lighting levels, but strong light should be approached carefully. LIGHTING RECOMMENDATIONS Low to Moderate PAR: A general target range of 50-150 PAR works well for many Mycedium and chalice-style corals. Some specimens may adapt higher, but lower to moderate lighting is usually safer. Light Acclimation: New frags should be acclimated gradually to your lighting. Start lower or in indirect light, then adjust slowly based on coloration and tissue health. Color Display: Blue and green tones often look best under blue-heavy reef lighting, especially when the eyes, mouths, or growth edges fluoresce. Too Much Light: Signs may include bleaching, fading, tissue recession, reduced color contrast, or poor expansion. Too Little Light: Signs may include dull coloration, slow growth, browning, or weak tissue over time. Do not place a fresh Mycedium directly under high-output lighting just because it looked good in a vendor photo. That is not coral care. That is buying a chalice and immediately starting a courtroom drama with photons. WATER FLOW The Blue and Green Mycedium prefers moderate, indirect water flow. Flow should be strong enough to prevent detritus from collecting on the coral’s surface, but not so strong that the tissue becomes irritated. FLOW RECOMMENDATIONS Ideal Flow: Moderate, indirect flow that keeps the surface clean and supports gas exchange. Avoid Direct Flow: Strong direct flow can irritate tissue, especially along thin edges or growth ridges. Avoid Dead Spots: Too little flow can allow detritus to settle in folds, ridges, or cup-shaped areas of the colony. Surface Cleanliness: Because Mycedium can grow in plated, folded, or cup-like shapes, debris may collect in low areas if flow is too weak. If detritus collects on the coral, increase gentle indirect flow or adjust placement. If tissue looks irritated, faded, or damaged along the edges, reduce direct current. Apparently the coral expects nuance, the nerve. DIET The Blue and Green Mycedium is photosynthetic, meaning it receives much of its energy from light through its symbiotic zooxanthellae. It may also benefit from occasional feeding with fine coral foods or small meaty foods. PRIMARY DIET Photosynthesis: Proper lighting provides much of the coral’s energy. Broadcast Feeding: The coral may capture small particles from the water column during regular fish and coral feeding. Target Feeding: Very small meaty foods, finely chopped mysis, LPS pellets, powdered coral foods, or other appropriate coral foods may be offered occasionally. Amino Acids / Coral Nutrition: Supplemental coral nutrition can be used carefully in established systems, especially when nutrients are controlled but not stripped. FEEDING FREQUENCY Feed lightly 1-2 times per week if desired. Direct feeding is not always necessary, but occasional feeding can support growth and coloration in stable systems. Avoid heavy feeding in small aquariums. The coral does not need a blizzard of powdered food because someone watched one enthusiastic reef video and lost restraint. COMPATIBILITY Blue and Green Mycedium can work well in many mixed reef aquariums, especially when placed with enough room to grow outward. It is generally not as aggressive as many long-tentacled LPS corals, but spacing still matters. COMMON TANK MATES Fish: Reef-safe fish such as clownfish, gobies, blennies, wrasses, tangs, cardinalfish, firefish, and other peaceful to semi-peaceful community fish. Avoid: Fish known to nip at LPS or chalice-style corals, such as some angelfish, butterflyfish, filefish, puffers, and certain triggers. Invertebrates: Generally safe with cleaner shrimp, snails, hermit crabs, urchins, and most common reef invertebrates. Large urchins or bulldozing snails may move unsecured frags. Coral: Keep away from aggressive neighboring corals, including torches, hammers, frogspawn, galaxea, favias, acans, mushrooms, chalices, and other stinging LPS unless spacing is carefully managed. Encrusting / Plating Competition: Blue and Green Mycedium may compete with other chalice corals, cyphastrea, leptoseris, montipora, favites, or encrusting corals if placed too close. BEHAVIORAL NOTES Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive by growth and contact. Can irritate or damage nearby coral tissue if allowed to grow into neighbors. Growth Pattern: Plating, folded, cup-like, or encrusting growth depending on the specimen and placement. Coloration: May show blue, teal, turquoise, gray-blue, green, lime, or fluorescent green tones depending on lighting, nutrients, stress, and photography conditions. Eyes / Mouths: Many Mycedium varieties show brighter eyes or mouths that may contrast strongly with the base color under blue lighting. Texture: Mycedium often has ridges, folds, bumps, or angular surface structure that make it look different from smoother chalice corals. Lighting Flexibility: Often adaptable, but usually safest in low-to-moderate lighting. Flow Sensitivity: Likes enough flow to stay clean, but not harsh direct flow. Growth Speed: Can grow steadily once established, especially in stable systems with appropriate lighting, nutrients, and space. Frag Handling: Handle by the plug, rock, or dead skeleton edge when possible. Avoid scraping or damaging the living tissue. Dipping: Coral dipping before introduction is recommended to reduce pests and contaminants. Use coral-safe dips according to product directions. Pest Awareness: Inspect for nuisance algae, flatworms, nudibranchs, vermetid snails, or other hitchhikers before placing into the display. Placement Reality: This coral can add excellent color and structure to lower rockwork. Just remember that plating corals grow outward and eventually turn “cute frag” into “who gave this thing expansion rights?” ACCLIMATION PROCESS This acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the coral to your aquarium’s temperature, lighting, and water chemistry. 1. DIM THE LIGHTS Turn down aquarium lights or place the coral in a shaded lower area at first. This helps reduce stress while the coral adjusts. 2. FLOAT THE BAG Float the sealed bag in the aquarium for 15-20 minutes to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank. 3. OPEN BAG, ADD CORAL TO CONTAINER Carefully open the bag and transfer the coral and shipping water into a clean container. Handle the coral by the plug, rock, or skeleton edge rather than scraping the living tissue. 4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER Add small amounts of tank water to the container every few minutes for 20-30 minutes. Avoid exposing the coral tissue to air longer than necessary. 5. CORAL DIP Use a coral-safe dip according to the product instructions. This can help reduce pests and contaminants before the coral enters your aquarium. 6. TRANSFER CORAL TO AQUARIUM Place the coral in a lower to middle area with moderate indirect flow. Discard the shipping and dip water. Do not pour shipping water or dip water into your aquarium. 7. LIGHT ACCLIMATE Allow the coral to adjust gradually over several days to weeks before moving it into brighter light. Watch for coloration, tissue health, and growth edge before making major placement changes. Show more