One of the most misunderstood vegetables in the shop and one of the most rewarding once you know what to do with it. Okra has a clean grassy flavour and a unique texture that makes it irreplaceable in the dishes that rely on it — from a slow cooked Southern gumbo to an Indian bhindi masala to a simple Middle Eastern stew. At its best in the warmer months from November through April when domestic crops come in bright green, firm and tender. Available year-round but summer and early autumn is when okra is at its finest. The key to great okra is simple. Keep it dry and do not overcook it. Trim the tops, toss in oil with salt and spices and roast in a hot oven or cook in a dry pan at high heat until the edges begin to char. High heat and minimal moisture keeps the texture firm and the flavour clean. Low and slow in a curry or stew is equally good — the natural thickening quality of okra does the work in longer cooked dishes and that is a feature, not a flaw. Look for bright green pods that snap cleanly when bent. Smaller pods are more tender. Any browning or soft spots mean it is past its best.
