Power Unit Relocation Bracket — a direct-fit replacement power unit. Ordering the power unit from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same. Specifications Part number: ALS-7010-01 Type: Genuine OEM power unit The hydraulic side of a lift is a closed loop: the power unit's motor drives a pump that pushes fluid from the reservoir, through a hose and fittings, into a cylinder that does the lifting, while a lowering valve meters it back to tank on the way down. Every part in that loop either moves fluid, holds pressure, or seals it in. When one link weeps or won't hold, the whole lift feels it. Dirty or wrong fluid quietly wrecks hydraulic parts. Milky oil means water got in and the pump is cavitating; dark, gritty oil means the system is grinding itself and packing the filter with metal. Mixing ISO-32 and ATF, or topping off with whatever's on the shelf, changes the viscosity the pump was built for. Half the "bad cylinder" calls in a shop start as fluid that should have been changed years ago. Related parts for this lift The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit. Any Power Unit Switch 6 terminal Any Power Unit Microswitch Replacing your power unit Rebuilding a cylinder with a seal kit is bench work: tear it down, lay the parts out in order, confirm the bore and rod aren't scored, then reassemble with the new seals lubricated and bench-test for leaks before it goes back in. The order of the seals and the condition of the barrel make or break the job. Walk through the complete guide before you crack the end cap. Full step-by-step: how to replace a car lift power unit. Find the right part for your lift Not certain this is the exact part your lift needs? Start with your lift's model and serial off the data plate, then open our parts lookup to see the visual parts breakdown for your model — the exploded drawing with every part numbered and priced. If your plate is missing or unreadable, our guide to finding your model number walks through where to find it, or send us a photo and we will identify the lift for you. Signs of a hydraulic problem A spongy or bouncy lift under load is air in the system or a failing seal letting pressure bleed past the piston. Bleed the cylinders first; if it's still soft, the piston seal isn't holding. Watch the rise, too — a cylinder that stalls partway or shudders is either low on fluid, sucking air, or scored inside so the seal skips. Parts commonly replaced at the same time While the system is open, take care of the companions — the seal kit, the o-rings, the feed hose, and the oil you will need to refill and bleed. It is cheaper and cleaner than reopening the system for the piece you skipped. We keep the right specs for your lift and can kit it for you. Hydraulic fluid Most 2-post and 4-post lifts run hydraulic oil equivalent to ISO-32; some older units were filled with Dexron ATF. Check what your lift currently uses and do not mix the two — and defer to your lift's installation manual for the exact fill capacity, since it varies by model. Safety notes Treat the hydraulic system as pressurized until you have relieved it. Bleed in the correct order, keep the reservoir topped so the pump never sucks air, and confirm there is zero drift at full height before returning the lift to service. A cylinder or hose that weeps today is a failure waiting for the worst moment. Before you order Hydraulic components are specific to the lift's pressure and plumbing, so order by model and serial, not by eye. For a leaking cylinder, decide between a seal kit and a full replacement first — we can help — and plan on topping off and bleeding the system when the new part goes in. Confirm this is the right part before you order Lift manufacturers revise parts mid-production without changing the model name, so the same lift bought two years apart can take two different revisions of the same component. Before you order, find the model plate on the lift — on most 2-post lifts it rides on one of the columns at eye level, on 4-post lifts it is usually on a column or the power-unit side runway — and note the full model number and serial. The serial dates the lift to a production run, and that is what decides which revision fits. If the plate is painted over or missing, take a photo of the part you are replacing next to a tape measure and send it to us. Between the dimensions, the mounting pattern, and what lift it came off of, we can almost always identify the exact part before you spend money on the wrong one. Why buy your power unit from Auto Lift Services We install, inspect, and repair automotive lifts every week — the ALS-7010-01 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.
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