Grown on the volcanic slopes of the Somlò hill in Hungary, this 100% Furmint wine is one of the best value whites we have come across in years. A clue to the power of this bottle comes in the golden hues of the liquid within, a nod towards the long ripening season the grapes undergo in this sheltered corner of the wine world’s best-kept secret. A nose tightly packed with lemon balm, apple skin, lime zest and pear open up to an alluring mineral note that carries through until long after the sip. The palate has some lovely weight and texture, thanks to the prolonged time on the lees in stainless steel tanks, which are accompanied by concentrated lemon and apple notes. The concentration and body are balanced wonderfully by mouth-watering acidity and a seamless, mineral finish that really persists in the mouth. Trust us when we say the minerality here is really striking, akin to the chalky, steeliness more likely found in the Loire valley than in Hungary. And, for the price, wines of this structure and finesse are very hard to come by. Fans of France’s top white appellations should be grabbing hold of the Tornai Furmint with both hands (up to you if you tell your friends about it or keep the secret to yourselves!) The Tornai Pincészet winery is the largest player in one of Hungary’s smallest wine growing regions, Somlò. Tornai has a long winemaking tradition that often goes overlooked by drinkers in the UK who know Hungary only for its sweet Tokaji wines. Somlò is a growing area blessed with amazing conditions for concentrated white grapes, with poor (good for growing grapes!), volcanic soils and perfect sheltering from the elements. The volcanic soils impart a cracking mineral character and the Tornai family have been crafting beautiful white wines here from Hungarian varieties for over half a century!