Prep Potion is a specially blended IPA panel wipe that does two jobs in one pass: strips the compound oils and lubricants that mask defects after polishing, AND preps the surface for ceramic coating bond. If your polish job is truly done, Prep Potion proves it. If it isn't, you'll see exactly where the work isn't finished, before the coating goes down and the customer takes delivery. Strip the Lie. See the Truth. Key Features: - Removes oils, polishing fillers, and surface contamination on contact - Ensures maximum adhesion for coatings, waxes, and sealants - Fast-evaporating, residue-free formula - Safe on gelcoat, painted surfaces, and metal - Made in the USA How to Use As a quality-control inspection wipe (between polish passes) Work in shade, on a cool surface. Surface temperature should be between 50°F and 90°F. After each polishing section, spray Prep Potion onto a clean, lint-free microfiber towel — never directly onto the surface. Wipe the polished area with light pressure using slow, side-to-side motions to remove compound residue, oils, and dust. Inspect the surface immediately — what you see now is what your customer will see in three weeks. If oxidation, haze, or swirls reappear after the wipe → you have correction work to redo. Hit it again with your compound before moving on. If the surface stays deep, even, and crystal clear → that section is truly corrected. Move to the next panel. Flip the towel to a clean side after each panel. As ceramic coating prep (final step before coating) After ALL polishing is complete and the surface passes inspection, do a final full panel-wipe. Spray Prep Potion onto a fresh, clean microfiber. Wipe each panel one section at a time in overlapping passes. Do not scrub back and forth. Flash off — 30 to 60 seconds before applying any ceramic coating, sealant, or wax. Two passes for coating prep is non-negotiable. First pass cleans. Second pass verifies. Ready-to-use formula. No dilution required. How to Use: Work in shade, in a well-ventilated area. Surface must be cool to the touch. Spray Prep Potion onto a clean, lint-free microfiber towel — never directly onto the surface. Wipe in one direction in small, overlapping sections. Do not scrub back and forth. Do not let it dry on the surface. Move at a steady pace — work one panel at a time. Flash off. Allow the surface to fully dry (30–60 seconds) before applying any coating, sealant, or wax. For coating prep, do two passes. First pass cleans. Second pass verifies. A truly clean surface should not pull anything off the second microfiber. Rotate towels frequently. Fold to a clean side after each panel. Switch to a fresh towel every 2–3 panels. ✅ Safe to Use On Cured automotive paint (single-stage, basecoat/clearcoat, ceramic-coated) Cured marine gelcoat Cured marine paint (Awlgrip, Imron, linear polyurethane) Glass (windshields, side windows, mirrors) Stainless steel Aluminum — raw, polished, and anodized Chrome and chrome-plated surfaces Powder-coated surfaces (fully cured) Rigid hard plastics (ABS, polypropylene, polyethylene) Most metal trim and accents Ceramic-coated surfaces (light prep before applying a topper) Carbon fiber components (cured clearcoat) Painted wheels (cured) Boat trailer frames and hardware ❌ Do NOT Use On Acrylic and plexiglass — causes crazing and stress cracks Polycarbonate / Lexan — clouds and crazes the surface Headlight lenses (typically polycarbonate) — will dull and yellow over time Fresh paint (less than 30 days cured) — IPA can lift uncured paint Single-stage lacquer paint — can soften and dull Soft vinyl interior trim (dashboards, soft-touch surfaces, padded armrests) Vinyl wraps — can damage adhesive or top finish (always test in an inconspicuous area) Decals, graphics, and pinstripes Leather upholstery and trim — strips natural oils, causes drying and cracking Rubber seals, gaskets, and trim — causes drying over repeat exposure Painted plastic dash and door panels — soft-touch coatings can dull or peel Anti-fog, hydrophobic, or rain-repellent glass coatings — will strip the coating Tinted window film — can damage tint adhesive Electronics, screens, displays, and infotainment panels Fabric upholstery and carpet — leaves water marks Hot surfaces or hot engines — IPA vapor is flammable When in doubt — test in an inconspicuous area first. Pro Tips from the Field Spray the towel, not the surface. Always. Direct spray over-saturates the surface, runs into seams, and creates streaks. The "false gloss" test is the entire game. If oxidation or swirls reappear after wiping, your polish step isn't done. Don't move forward and don't apply coating — fix the correction first. Use quality microfiber. Cheap microfibers shed lint that ends up trapped under your ceramic coating, ruining the bond and the gloss. 70/30 or 80/20 polyester/polyamide blends work best. Two-towel system. One wet towel for the Prep Potion pass, a separate dry buffing towel to chase any streaks. Fold technique — fold your microfiber into quarters to get 8 clean sides per towel. One panel, one section at a time. Do the inspection wipe before moving to the next section. Catching missed correction at the panel level beats catching it at "I finished the whole boat" level. For ceramic coating prep, two passes are non-negotiable. First pass cleans. Second pass verifies. Skip the second pass and you'll have coating failures. For glass before water-repellent coatings, Prep Potion is one of the best primers — strips manufacturing oils, fingerprints, and silicone film that block hydrophobic coatings from bonding. Don't apply over a hot panel. IPA flashes off too fast to do its job and the surface temperature accelerates evaporation before the residue lifts. Avoid static buildup on plastics — work in higher humidity or use anti-static microfibers. Never use near open flames, sparks, or smoking. IPA is flammable. After polishing, ALWAYS Prep Potion before coating. No exceptions, regardless of how clean you think the surface is.
