HISTORY The petite village of Sury-en-Vaux, northwest of Sancerre, is the secret home of the extraordinarily character-rich wines of the Pastou family. Winemaker Jean-Marc Pastou for some 30 years has followed a singular calling to make the most honest and terroir-true Sancerre his few acres will give. His vineyards sit at the highest point in the village, and his older vines (that he planted himself) grow on perfect terroir: the classic chalky stones and flinty soils which give Sancerre its characteristic zip. We choose from the family’s few temperature-controlled tanks the most expressive, older-vine Sancerre Blanc to bottle unfined and unfiltered as our ‘La Côte de Sury,’ a special wine that captures the essence of what great Sancerre should be—enlivening and satisfying, and a great value, too. The estate’s Sancerre Rouge, a limited-release wine from peerless terroir, is exceptional; and the family’s few acres in Pouilly-Fumé deliver a smoky, racy Sauvignon Blanc each vintage. VINEYARDS & WINEMAKING The family’s vineyards sit high up on the slope in the village of Sury, northwest of Sancerre. Soils are a mix of sand, “caillottes” (small chalky stones) and flint. Vines are on average 35 years old. Grapes are harvested by hand, and fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks; wines are aged in tank on fine lees, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. From the highest, older-vine vineyards in Sury, northwest of Sancerre. This is Sauvignon Blanc in its purest form: aromas of chalk and lemon blossoms, a mouthful of freshly squeezed citrus and a sea-salty, tangy finish. Aromas of lime and lemon zest, with a touch of firecracker smoke (from the flinty soils). Flavors of crisp pear, grapefruit and kumquat.
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