Stemone®

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With Fig Leaf prohibited by IFRA a quality fig note must be made synthetically. Enter Stemone — intensely green, leafy and ivy-like. It is really the most perfect way to recreate t he note of figs and, in the words of one perfume critic in reviewing Fig My Love (2016) by Christophe Laudamiel for The Zoo: “It is often based on stemone, a molecule bearing the unusual oxime -NOH functional group, which always confers a green-camphoraceous feel to molecules. Many perfumers have chosen to bend this aromachemical towards a more natural accord. I think the fig tree smells so chemical in the first place that there’s no point in pretending. Laudamiel agrees[.]” A masterpiece of subtle perfumery, Balade Sauvage (2018) by François Demachy for Dior, also builds its central accord around the classic fig fruit duo of Stemone (0.02%) and Gamma Octalactone (0.07%) with fig tree nuances from Triplal (0.02%) and Liffarome (0.09%). This material has no restrictions so you can approach it with gay abandon, but beware: this is no delicate snowflake; traces can come screaming to the fore if not balanced right. Other uses that may help as a guide are the must-have Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui (1980) 1.8% overdose, 0.15% in Azzaro Pour Homme (1978, Gerard Anthony & Richard Wirtz), Ombre Nomade's (2018) 0.004% trace from Louis Vuitton, and 0.07% in Philosykos by Diptyque. Show more