The most distinctly French herb in the shop and one of the great flavours of the classic European kitchen. Tarragon has a delicate anise character with a faint vanilla warmth that is unlike any other herb on the shelf. A little goes a long way and it transforms everything it touches. At its most aromatic from November through April when warm growing conditions bring out the essential oils that give tarragon its distinctive fragrance. Available year-round but the warm season punnet is noticeably more fragrant and flavoursome. Fold through a classic béarnaise sauce where it is irreplaceable, stir into a chicken dish with white wine and cream where the anise lifts the whole plate, whisk into a vinaigrette for a salad dressing with genuine complexity, or scatter over grilled fish in the last minute of cooking. Use it fresh wherever possible — heat diminishes the fragrance quickly. Look for slender bright green leaves with firm stems and no yellowing. A fresh tarragon punnet announces itself with a clean anise fragrance the moment you open it.
