Print your own delete kit! This is for the files only, no physical product. If you decide to buy the aluminum part after buying the files, we will apply the cost of the files toward the aluminum fitting. Files included: 1) Adapter fitting to relocate the factory barb. 2) Teardrop O-ring fitting to block off return pipe. 3) Round cap to cap off cut coolant return pipe. 4) Square cap to cap off cut coolant manifold. If you are 3d printing the adapter fitting, care must be taken to ensure the material, strength and quality are suitable for coolant and heat. All risk and responsibility are assumed by the buyer. Reviews: Jesper from email conversations: "I have now driven 50,000km on the coolant delete from you and have found no problems." Brian's comment on the YouTube video, "32k miles and going strong. I have taken two 20 hour trips from Florida to Ohio, no problems at all." Tesla LDU Rotor Coolant Delete Kit. This kit deletes the coolant from the LDU rotor preventing the inevitable leak that will destroy the Tesla Large Drive Unit. This is a 100% fool proof way to permanently delete coolant flow to the rotor. It cannot leak like the pressed in caps. This kit can be installed in car without removing the drive unit or subframe. There are two installation options: Removing the coolant pipe completely, or only removing part of the pipe (which is usually easier). The kit contains the Billet Aluminum barbed fitting, two o-ring plug fittings, a return tube cap, and a casting plug. How did LDU cooling work from the factory? From the factory, Tesla sends coolant to the Large Drive Unit (LDU) through a 3/4" port. This port deadheads into a flow diverter cast into the LDU coolant manifold. Most of the coolant flows to the Stator/Inverter, and exits another 3/4" fitting at the bottom of the differential. A small amount of coolant splits off and flows through the center of the rotor shaft. The coolant heats up as it cools the rotor, then returns through a 5/16" return tube connected to the top of the differential. This heated coolant flows along the outside of the differential adding heat to the gear oil until the LDU gets up to temperature. It then exits the LDU through the same 3/4" exit fitting used by the stator and inverter flow. How does deleted cooling work? The aluminum barbed fitting eliminates the Tesla plastic barb along with the flow diverter portion of the coolant manifold. The new fitting sends 100% of the coolant flow directly into the Stator followed by the Inverter. The Stator and Inverter are the only two places where Tesla monitors LDU temperatures and will derate power when temperatures get extremely high. Although a small amount of coolant is no longer flowing through the rotor shaft, the internal coolant pipe remains in-tact in the center of the rotor shaft to help passively wick heat away from the rotor. No other coolant delete kits keep this option. Why choose this kit? -Less expensive than other billet aluminum kits -Less expensive to install than all other kits (when paying for labor) -Easier to install for Professionals and DIYers -Faster installation -Less wear/tear and risk from removing subframe and LDU from vehicle. (Removing the entire drive unit often results in broken connectors, encountered seized bolts, and corroded high voltage connections.) -Increased Stator/Inverter cooling due to 100% of the coolant volume flowing through the Stator/Inverter with reduced restriction. Many other kits simply bypass the rotor coolant around the motor resulting in reduced overall cooling capacity. -Retains pipe inside the rotor shaft to help remove heat from rotor, all other kits remove this part eliminating the benefit of internal heat transfer. -Completely eliminates possibility of future rotor leaks vs relying on pressed in caps of dissimilar metals and sealant. FAQ: Will my motor be ok if it has already started leaking? It is recommended to remove and clean/rebuild your motor if a leak has already occurred. Can this kit be used if the LDU must be removed to be cleaned or rebuilt? Of course! You still get the benefit of better stator/inverter cooling due to increased coolant flow. You also retain the aluminum tube inside the rotor for passive rotor cooling. If I remove the flyover tube will the gearbox will overheat? No it will not, and here is why: With normal driving the Rotor operates at temperatures between 80°C-110°C with normal driving and 120°C-150°C with high performance driving. The Stator will operate at similar temperatures. The gearbox operates much cooler at 50°C-80°C, and 50°C-100°C respectively. So, with factory Rotor cooling, the coolant in the flyover tube would exceed the normal temperature of the gearbox as does the Stator return flow. This return coolant flow adds heat to the gearbox vs removing heat. How long will my LDU last? This depends on many variables such as mileage, previous leaking, oil quality etc... There are hundreds of these kits installed around the world, some with over 35,000 deleted miles and counting on an already high mileage LDU. How did you come up with this kit? I developed this kit after exploring all of the other options for the LDU coolant deletes for my custom converted 1972 Plymouth Satellite (The Electrollite). Although I can easily remove the LDU from the Plymouth, it seemed like an unnecessary step for an LDU that is in good condition. I also wanted to focus on performance, so removing the restriction, and increasing flow to the Stator made the most sense. I push my LDU arguably harder than anyone with frequent drag racing, drifting, and high performance mountain driving. My LDU will hit very high temperatures, all the way to the derates over 160°C. The Electrollite has thousands of trouble free high performance miles since the delete. Data logs show 5%-10% better stator cooling when comparing similar conditions before and after the delete. Instructions here:
