Bottled this past February, the 2010 Cotes du Roussillon Clos del Rey features both Grenache and Syrah as supplements to its (as usual) dominant Carignan, and it saw one-third new barrels. A lush and sweetly-ripe meld of blackberry, elderberry and black raspberry is shadowed by high-toned distilled fruit aromas for an almost liqueur-like composite impression that is pleasantly complemented by hints of vanilla and carnal from barrel. The root- and mineral- orientations familiar from recent 'Sabina' bottlings are in effect here too, with both earthy richness of beet root and invigorating impingements of sassafras, ginger, licorice and horseradish; peat and crushed stone as well as iodine and salt, the latter serving for saliva-liberation in a whiplash-like, nearly indelible finish that also incorporates fruit pit piquancy and fruit skin tang intriguingly reminiscent of nectarine. This sappy, fine-grained, almost broodingly yet vibrantly complex cuvee is a prime example of wine that can make good use of its new oak component without sacrificing an iota of mineral or herbal nuance let alone primary fruit juiciness. I would expect it to perform magnificently through at least 2028. Incidentally, this dense ball of energy harbors a mere 13.5% alcohol, one and a half degrees less than its 2009 counterpart. Score - 95. (David Schildknecht, erobertparker.com, Jan. 2014)
