To mark Vittles’ fifth birthday, we introduce the inaugural issue of our new print magazine all about modern food and culture. Issue 1 is made up of old and new work, with a focus on the absurdity of food culture. In London, David Jesudason investigates the organisations that run Britain’s various curry awards; in Karachi, Sanam Maher writes about the family who first brought sushi, kicking and screaming, to Pakistan; from New York, Aaron Timms sends a scathing report on the exploits of British food influencers. We are, at heart, a London publication that quite likes London, and no one knows more about the city’s restaurants than Fay Maschler, who Adam Coghlan has interviewed about 1987, the pivotal year in Modern British dining. We’re equally honoured to have a compilation of new food writing from eight young people from Croydon’s Young Archivist project, who may well be the critics of the future. Between this, we have contributions from some of our favourite writers – including Jonathan Meades, Tom Lamont, Jasleen Kaur, Paul Gilroy and Nigel Slater – plus a lively argument between Yvonne Maxwell and Tunde Wey on the subject of gatekeeping restaurants. And there’s more: the ultimate dinner party recipe from Nick Bramham; a short story from author Sophie Mackintosh; a beautiful photo essay on London supermarkets by our photographer Michaël Protin; a score-settling guide to food-world beef; a baker’s dozen of our favourite pieces we’ve published over the last half-decade; and extras from Jonathan Nunn, Rebecca May Johnson and more.
