--WILLAMETTE RED-- Willamette Red Raspberry is the classic raspberry with deep red juice that is sweet, tart, and great for all your favorite berry recipes. Willamette is the most widely planted raspberry worldwide Heavy producer of berries that ship well June-July harvest Mature height is 3-8 feet with a spread of 4-8 feet. Semi-trailing plant structure Self-fertile USDA Zones 5-10 (The warmer the zone, the sweeter the fruit) Bush measures 6"+ tall and is planted in a 2-gallon pot. Click here to see our Berry Variety Chart Check out our Cane Berry Growing Guide (pdf) END-ITEM Dormant Tree & Plant Guarantee: We guarantee that trees that are shipped dormant will leaf out the following spring if you follow our growing and handling instructions. Any dormant tree that does not leaf out can qualify for a refund if you submit a claim by May 15th. All deciduous fruit trees, persimmons and jujubes need to be planted in the ground by April 1stto qualify for replacement, unless you are in area where the ground is still frozen at that time. In the rare event that your dormant tree/plant has not leafed out by May 1st, please perform a “scratch test” to check for green under the bark. Just beneath the dry, outer layer of bark in a tree's trunk lies the cambium layer. In a living tree, this is green; in a dead tree, it is brown and dry. To perform a “scratch test”, scratch off the top layer of bark in a small spot on a branch and on the trunk. Be sure to do 1 test above the graft union, and a 2nd just below the graft union. If the scratch test reveals a brown cambium, that means your tree/plant is dead or dying. To qualify for a refund, you must submit a claim via email [email protected] no later than May 15th. Please include your order number in the subject line of your email. Claims must include: -Photos of the scratch test areas -Your order number -Name(s) of trees affected. We will review your claim and if approved, we will issue you a refund for the purchase price of your dormant tree (excluding shipping). We reserve the right to not issue a refund for items that have already been replaced. --SHIPPING-- There are no state restrictions on shipping raspberry plants. Sorry, we do not ship any items to the US Virgin Islands, Guam, Puerto Rico or to API/APO addresses, or to other countries at this time. No customer pick-up Click here for More Shipping Information END-ITEM { "@context": "https://schema.org", "@type": "FAQPage", "mainEntity": [ { "@type": "Question", "name": "How much sunlight does a raspberry bush need and where should I place it?", "acceptedAnswer": { "@type": "Answer", "text": "All raspberry bushes require full sun for best results- 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight. All the raspberry bushes are shallow-rooted and will fill a space 3 to 4 feet wide. Beds should be at least that wide and 1 to 2 feet deep. If soil does not drain well, use raised beds. Note that some varieties will grow erect canes while others grow trailing canes that should be trained on a trellis of some sort to keep them in check." } }, { "@type": "Question", "name": "How should I plant or repot a raspberry bush?", "acceptedAnswer": { "@type": "Answer", "text": "Plant raspberries in the ground in rows or containers, space plants 3 feet apart. For best results, plant berries in full sun (or afternoon shade in hot climates) in rich, well-drained soil using a trellis or fence for support. Most are ever bearing, producing 2 crops per year: the heaviest crop in the fall and a lighter crop in June. Prune out and remove older canes during the dormant season (after the second crop) or to control size.\n\nAll the raspberries are shallow-rooted and will fill a space 3 to 4 feet wide. Beds should be at least that wide and 1 to 2 feet deep. If soil does not drain well, use raised beds." } }, { "@type": "Question", "name": "What fertilizer should I use and how often should I feed a raspberry bush?", "acceptedAnswer": { "@type": "Answer", "text": "If the leaf color is good and the plants are growing and fruiting well, it is not necessary to fertilize. If fertilizer is needed, rake back mulch, spread fertilizer on top of the soil, and recover with mulch. In early spring or at first bloom, apply a 20-20-20 formula at a rate of 4 lbs per 100 ft of row. Organic fertilizers such as blood meal, cottonseed meal, fish meal, or alfalfa meal are alternative applications.\n\nAmend soil with well-composted organic matter. If under-composted material is used such as leaves or manure, do not plant for 2 months to allow it to break down. Buried pockets of organic matter may become toxic to roots. Mulching with organic matter is a good option." } }, { "@type": "Question", "name": "How often should I water a raspberry bush?", "acceptedAnswer": { "@type": "Answer", "text": "How often to water will vary on the environment and depends on soil porosity, plant size, and temperature. Cane berries like moist but not overly wet soil. Soil type will dictate water use. Irrigate with soaker hoses or drip lines rather than overhead watering because it can cause fruit rot and other fungal issues. Be sure to adjust based on weather conditions." } }, { "@type": "Question", "name": "How and when should I prune a raspberry bush?", "acceptedAnswer": { "@type": "Answer", "text": "Blackberries: After the summer harvest, the old canes that fruited are cut back to the ground. Leave 5 to 8 new canes per plant and all the other new canes are cut back to the ground. In the winter, cut the new canes back to 5 to 6 ft long and spread them across the trellis. Side branches can be cut back to 12 inches. In spring and summer, watch for thorny suckers and cut them off at the ground level.\n\nRaspberries: Hoe-out canes that extend into pathways. After the late spring harvest, remove the old fruiting canes, select, and tie the strongest well-spaced new canes (8–12 per plant) to the trellis wire, and cut off the remaining canes at the ground level.\n\nEverbearing varieties bear mostly on the current season's growth in the fall (from September through November), so they are usually completely cut back to the ground each winter. If a small June crop is desired, the canes are instead cut below the autumn fruiting region rather than cutting the entire cane back to the ground. Summer bearing varieties bear fruit in June on over-wintered canes while new vegetative shoots grow from the ground to become the next year's fruiting canes. No canes are removed in winter (except for weak, damaged, or broken canes). Instead the canes are shortened to 6 ft. All fruiting canes are cut back to the ground after harvest allowing new canes to grow." } } ] }
