Win Son is a restaurant with a bakery off-shoot in Brooklyn, New York, serving Taiwanese American food. They're part of a growing spotlight on Taiwanese food in the US, but one that also incorporates the interaction with other elements of American cuisine, as well as personal creativity. Founders Josh Ku and Trigg Brown have teamed up with Cathy Erway, author of The Food of Taiwan, to offer this informative, ambitious, and energetic cookbook. In it you will learn about distinctively Taiwanese ingredients such as soy paste, and flavor combinations like garlic, mild red chiles, and rice vinegar. And while the authors are clear about pointing out the Taiwanese roots of their dishes, they're also not shy about explaining the riffs that they've developed. A salad of marinated cucumbers is topped with fried shallots and grated cured mullet roe. The seemingly ubiquitous sesame noodle dish goes deep into the realms of umami, first with the use of black sesame paste, and then with the incorporation of stir-fried mushrooms. There are standout guides to creating favorites such as pan-griddled pork buns and scallion pancakes, along with milk breads and a cluster of desserts and sweet treats. Informative, serious, and adventurous. Hardcover. Color photographs throughout.
