Bibi Graetz Testamatta 2020 Testamatta wine expresses the purity, minerality and transparency of Sangiovese from old vines on the top of the hills characterized by soils rich of stones. A Super Tuscan made with 100% Sangiovese, result of the combination of tradition and creativity. Critical Acclaim 95 Robert Parker's Wine Advocate Bibi Graetz has long been tinkering with his formula for this wine, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The 2020 Testamatta is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, with a priority on cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern exposures). In the wake of climate change, and in the pursuit of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard property near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from a breezy, high-elevation site) are what gives Testamatta its beautiful clarity, sharpness and lifted bouquet. The new Fiesole fruit makes up about 30% to 35% of this wine. The results are vibrant, transparent and fresh both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transformation and a wine to watch. 94 James Suckling Beautiful, fresh aromas of sour cherries, orange peel and lemon bush. Medium-bodied with firm, racy acidity and ultra-fine tannins that add brightness and energy to the wine. This is definitely following the new wave of crunchy, vivid Tuscany sangioveses, which emphasize drinkability and transparency. Lighter than past vintages. Drink now or hold. 94 Vinous Dusty, floral and lifted with flinty crushed stone, peppery herbs and tart raspberry, the 2020 Rosso Testamatta makes itself known in the glass. This is finessed and pure in style, combining bright acidity and minerals with wild strawberry fruit, all carried across seamlessly silky textures. While structured, the 2020 leaves the palate completely refreshed as a web of fine-grained tannins frames pretty rose and sweet spice nuances. What a darling. I expect that bottle age will bring more flesh to the palate, but even without it, the 2020 Testamatta, a varietal Sangiovese, is gorgeous. 93 Wine Enthusiast The subtle nose on this wine releases oak notes first, then cherries, soy sauce, herbs, pencil shavings and eraser, and finally a little orange peel. Graphite and soil come through on the palate alongside more cherries, orange and dried herbs. Tannins hold their shape but let the fruit speak, while acid cuts right down the tongue. 93 Jeb Dunnuck Scorched earth and pure sun-ripened fruit are at the forefront of the 2020 Testamatta, with ripe red cherry, tarragon, and toasted cedar. Medium bodied, with a mineral and lifted texture, it offers fine tannins and a citrus tinged finish. A razor edge of acidity drives the wine forward and creates a linear feel. It will certainly benefit for more time in bottle to ease into its full potential and can be enjoyed over the next 15 or so years.
