The Rotary FD6166-4 lifting cable is the direct replacement for the Rotary lift it came off of. Cross-referenced as ALS-9763-67, it is the genuine Rotary part — same part number, same fit, and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Rotary lifting cable from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same. Specifications Part number: ALS-9763-67 Brand: Rotary Type: Genuine OEM lifting cable Cable failure almost never happens all at once. A strand pops here, a groove wears oversize there, a sheave bushing walks out the side, and the cable starts cording where it turns. Left alone, the frayed section keeps losing strands until the day it lets go — usually with weight on the lift. That is the whole reason these tension parts get inspected and swapped on a schedule instead of run to failure. Rust is the quiet killer of lift cable. A shop in a salt-belt climate, or a lift that sat in a damp corner for a few years, loses cable to corrosion long before it ever wears out mechanically. Surface rust you can live with; rust that has eaten into the strands or frozen a sheave bushing you cannot. Once the steel is pitting under the outer wires, the rated strength is already gone. Related parts for this lift The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit. Cable Assembly x 23' $ 1,251.64 $ 1,126.48 - Rotary - FD6166-3 Cable Assembly $ 1,093.33 - Rotary - FD6165 Cable - Rotary - FD6166-5 Replacing your lifting cable Replacing a lift cable is straightforward hand-tool work, but the details decide whether the lift lands level afterward — routing each cable correctly over its sheaves, connecting the hard-to-reach end first, and setting the adjusting nuts so every lock clicks together. Before you cut the old cable off, lay the new one alongside it to confirm the length is right. Because a mis-routed or unequal set makes the lift arrive crooked, the full procedure is worth following start to finish. Full step-by-step: how to replace 2-post lift cables. Find the right part for your lift If you are not sure this part matches your setup, the fastest check is the visual breakdown: open our Rotary parts lookup, pick your model, and match your part against the drawing where every item is numbered. Can't read the model plate? our guide to finding your model number shows exactly where it lives on each lift type, and we are a phone call away if you would rather have us confirm it. Signs a cable or sheave is worn out Watch the lift work, not just the parts. If one lock clicks noticeably before the others on the way up, or the lift lands one corner first on the way down, a cable has stretched or a sheave is dragging. Then inspect the suspect cable end to end for broken strands and the sheaves for groove wear. A lift that won't equalize is telling you a tension part is going. Parts commonly replaced at the same time Rarely is a tension part a solo job. A worn cable often means the sheaves it rides are grooved, and a failed sheave chews cables — so plan on doing them together. We can pull the matched cable set plus sheaves and pins for your exact lift so nothing gets missed and you are not back in there next month. Safety notes The whole reason a lift has redundant locks is that cables and sheaves are wear items that will eventually fail — your job is to replace them before they get there. Do not run a lift on a cable with broken strands or a sheave with a chipped flange, and never work under a load resting on tension parts you do not trust. Drop it to the locks first. Before you order Get it right the first time: note your lift's model and serial, count the cables in the set, and check the sheaves while you are at it. Ordering matched tension parts together saves a return and a repeat teardown. If you are unsure which length your lift takes, send a photo of the plate. Ordering the right revision Before this goes in the cart, grab two things off your lift: the model number and the serial number, both on the manufacturer's plate. The serial matters more than most people expect — lift makers revise components between production runs without renaming the lift, and the run your serial falls in determines which revision of this part is correct. If you are working from a failed part rather than a plate, measure what you have and photograph how it mounts. Send that to us along with the lift brand, and we will check it against the same parts breakdowns our own techs use in the field before you commit to the order. Why buy your Rotary lifting cable from Auto Lift Services We install, inspect, and repair Rotary lifts every week — the ALS-9763-67 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.
